Sod all that

1 x candle (any normal household candle will do, I have even used surf wax but it gets a bit messy as its a bit too soft and makes line look worse).

rub it on centre line once every so often

job done

I find its not totally due to the sand etc but the constant moving of the bar, the wax helps it slide, and also keeps the sand out a bit I suppose

I waxed my depower lines easily by just melting the paraffin in a pot (being very careful not to let it get too hot as it will burn) Then I took it off the heat and let it cool a bit so it was liquid but close to starting to skim over, then I dipped as much as I could into the parafin so it soaked into the line.

The reason I was wondering about the lines is that they tend to stick together when setting up. I thought about using the stuff that I put on my catamaran sail http://www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Kite ... ealNglide/ It is fantastic stuff. It is completely colourless and the material is very slippery afterwards and repels water. It's not cheap and it has an activator.

Therefore it would repel sand and weeds etc.

Archery bow string wax is great.

Specially designed to avoid line ware.

Comes in a big chapstick.

Break some off into a rag and rub it on to the depower line.
Do it quite aggressively to melt the wax into the inner fibers too.

The result is very nice. Nice slippery wax finish, but does not cause a problem for cleats.

Lines last a very long time this way

sounds like a great idea. anyone else try this?

I tried the sailkote option on my well used (sharpened) north bar, In 36 hours of water use my line was TOAST with some strands frayed to the point of being broken. Useless in my opinion The ski wax so far is over 100 hours on the same bar unmodified. I've meant to take a file to it. but things have been holding up so well I haven't bothered.

Sailkote may help with dirt accumulation, so it MIGHT be useful if put on from new. but if it's the bar that's chewing the lines it's still gunna fray. Wax seems to help no matter what the problem is.


With regards to temperature I looked up some ski wax melting points and you are cutting it pretty close using the really cold stuff as someone mentioned. Melting point of dyneema is around 140-160 C

Short durations of temperatures below that should not provide any decrease in breaking strength.
SOURCE:
http://www.samsonrope.com/site_files/Ta ... imates.pdf

Some of the "cold" ski/snowboard waxes are around 120 C
some of the "warm" ski/snowboard waxes around 75C
Straight up parafin is 50-53C

SOURCE
http://www.jonsskituning.co.uk/content/view/28/41/