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Hey bro's.

I'd like to make my speed 3 less stally. Apart from resetting the mixer what else do you recommend?

is it simply a matter of lengthening the rearlines or shortening the front?

should I lengthen the Z line abit?

I am a retired Speed 3 21 tuning expert....i think you have a 15

So i will let a current expert that rides your size help you

No tuning required anymore with what i ride...set it once..fast turning..minimal bar pressure..and go

plummet wrote:Hey bro's.

I'd like to make my speed 3 less stally. Apart from resetting the mixer what else do you recommend?

is it simply a matter of lengthening the rearlines or shortening the front?

should I lengthen the Z line abit?

I am assuming a few things:

1) You have reset the mixer to 0

2) You have compensated for Back line shrinkage by shortening your front lines using the Black Line above the adjuster. Front and Back lines should be the same length when the Adjuster is fully open and the bar is pulled all the way down to the chicken loop. Best to tie up the end of the lines to a tree or other solid stationary object to test this.

So. If the kite is still to backstally, try lengthening C. B will adjust itself harmonically by itself. This will sacrifice a bit of stability, but will give you less backstall. Lengthing Z will just make the kite turn slower and will also reduce the Low end of the kite.

--
Gunnar

cheers bro,

Just check and re-set the mixer to zero. it wasn't too far out. but Z was too long. So i adjusted that to standard.

Lines has stretched 2-3cm so I have reset that to standard too....

Will see next flight if i need to go for less stall action

gmb13 wrote:

plummet wrote:Hey bro's.

I'd like to make my speed 3 less stally. Apart from resetting the mixer what else do you recommend?

is it simply a matter of lengthening the rearlines or shortening the front?

should I lengthen the Z line abit?

I am assuming a few things:

1) You have reset the mixer to 0

2) You have compensated for Back line shrinkage by shortening your front lines using the Black Line above the adjuster. Front and Back lines should be the same length when the Adjuster is fully open and the bar is pulled all the way down to the chicken loop. Best to tie up the end of the lines to a tree or other solid stationary object to test this.

So. If the kite is still to backstally, try lengthening C. B will adjust itself harmonically by itself. This will sacrifice a bit of stability, but will give you less backstall. Lengthing Z will just make the kite turn slower and will also reduce the Low end of the kite.

--
Gunnar

hahahahahahahahahaha Unbelievably hysterical. The whole thread!!

well at least it can be tuned back to original. most other kites just deteriate in perfomance until you sell them. they have no adjustments at all.

plummet wrote:cheers bro,

Just check and re-set the mixer to zero. it wasn't too far out. but Z was too long. So i adjusted that to standard.

Lines has stretched 2-3cm so I have reset that to standard too....

Will see next flight if i need to go for less stall action

That comment sounds a bit off. When you set the mixer to 0 you should have been using A and Z together as a Level under at least 5kg of tension before lining up B and C. Ignore the relation between front and back lines when doing the mixer test.

I usually do it this way:

I line up the A and Z then loop the flying lines near the ELCs or Rings (ColoredEdition) around my toe and then tension. I make sure that A and Z still line up after tensioning. If not unloop and try again.



--
Gunnar

This place is all about foils:

http://www.powerzonekitesports.com/

gmb13 wrote:

plummet wrote:cheers bro,

Just check and re-set the mixer to zero. it wasn't too far out. but Z was too long. So i adjusted that to standard.

Lines has stretched 2-3cm so I have reset that to standard too....

Will see next flight if i need to go for less stall action

That comment sounds a bit off. When you set the mixer to 0 you should have been using A and Z together as a Level under at least 5kg of tension before lining up B and C. Ignore the relation between front and back lines when doing the mixer test.

I usually do it this way:

I line up the A and Z then loop the flying lines near the ELCs or Rings (ColoredEdition) around my toe and then tension. I make sure that A and Z still line up after tensioning. If not unloop and try again.



--
Gunnar

yes. but i replaced my pulley bridles a little while ago with aftermaket bridle lines made locally. the knot for the Z line on the bridle was in the wrong spot making the yellow z line too long at the mixer. So i have set that back so A = Z and set B and C to teh same length.