jaystore wrote:Contribution to the discussion is welcome and bricolage should be posted in the "handmade" section. Ask Toby to open it!
I admire your entrepreneurial spirit and applaud your bringing a polished product to market, but that last bit.... THIS is a forum. Your are welcome to advertise but no single thread is an advertisement and any attempt to make it so is unwelcome.
I would never have posted these without that post:
Here is a super clean super safe DIY version that is every bit as slick as commercially available products, cost is about $60. Mostly for the high end snap shackle that has a working load of 880 kg a breaking load of 1500 kg and swivels. Do your research on shackles. This is the safest option for kiting. Photos show minimal mods to a standard dakine spreader bar pad and can be done inside a half hour if you know what your doing. I run a dedicated short line wave bar as shown and a regular commercial bar for unhooking/fixed hook twin tip riding. Shorter QR set up than standard chicken loop + hook means less loss of sheeting range when using slider. Slider line and ring stow cleanly. Tie downs at bottom stop spreader bar from flipping and are tied through pad. Fixed hook does not interfere in any way with sliding system or its safety. Leash is to mini 5th or single line flag that is independent of sliding system should it fail in any way.
Aloha.
We don't only advertise, we inform users about this new product. We didn't just bring a polished product to market, we are luckily the first company who had the madness to invent a working sliding hook solution. We are proud of making happy a lot of kiters who are paying us back by supporting and promoting our products just because they give them a real benefit.
However we will be happy to send you a DYNABAR for free, you save 60$ and have the opportunity to compare DYNABAR with your proto and make a review on the forum
Favorite Beaches: Emerald Isle, NC, OBX, Isle of Palms,SC, Aruba,Antigua,Barbuda,Key West,FL,Playa del Carmen,Grenadines
Style: Freeride, waves, rolls, air
Gear: Cabrinha SB 9 and 12, Apollo 14 Flysurfer Soul 12 Lyft foilboard Cabrinha Ace Shinn Monk 130 2010 Jimmy Lewis 133 Ben Wilson Drifter 5'9" and few other kitesurfboards 150 mako 2011
So I got frustrated trying to get the dynabar, so I went to West Marine and bought this Amsteel Dyneema line for $4 and a stainless sliding hook clip rated for 1500lbs for $34 and it works great. Toe side and beach walks are easy now. I doubt I will ever use a bar again in surf.
Yep, sliding hooks work great for some. Just make sure your QR works with that hook and understand that there is a chance that some other line can get easily caught in that type of hook and create real problems, real fast. It might be better if the hook could lock/unlock quick and easy. Just saying'...
knotwindy wrote:Yep, sliding hooks work great for some. Just make sure your QR works with that hook and understand that there is a chance that some other line can get easily caught in that type of hook and create real problems, real fast. It might be better if the hook could lock/unlock quick and easy. Just saying'...
+1
Closed locking carabiner or round ring or no ring (chicken loop straight on the rope).
But best if you can take a spreader that has a hook that broke and grind off the remaining nubs.
That way the spreader can keep the harness intact, the way it was designed.
knotwindy wrote:Yep, sliding hooks work great for some. Just make sure your QR works with that hook and understand that there is a chance that some other line can get easily caught in that type of hook and create real problems, real fast. It might be better if the hook could lock/unlock quick and easy. Just saying'...
+1
Closed locking carabiner or round ring or no ring (chicken loop straight on the rope).
But best if you can take a spreader that has a hook that broke and grind off the remaining nubs.
That way the spreader can keep the harness intact, the way it was designed.
+1 for Oldn`s...idea. Works perfectly, if you never ride unhooked.
Funny I went back to a fixed hook. Though I love the Dynabar and keep it in the car for a return to it someday I find I like having the hook close to my body. This gives me a more comfortable arm position in it's relation to the sheet position I like. Also more depower throw if I need it. Also cuts down on weight by having a tiny hook. I've got the 6" Dakine fixed hook and a tiny bar pad.
Engine harness with Dynabar using their fixed hook and their rope slider with a beefy O-ring from West Marine is working great so far. Go from sliding bar to fixed hook on the fly!
blazeheli wrote:Engine harness with Dynabar using their fixed hook and their rope slider with a beefy O-ring from West Marine is working great so far. Go from sliding bar to fixed hook on the fly!
When in sliding mode, do you ever get hung up on the hook or can you see a scenario where it might get caught on the hook
blazeheli wrote:Engine harness with Dynabar using their fixed hook and their rope slider with a beefy O-ring from West Marine is working great so far. Go from sliding bar to fixed hook on the fly!
When in sliding mode, do you ever get hung up on the hook or can you see a scenario where it might get caught on the hook
Not that I can see. When I am in sliding mode - the rope is almost always above the hook since the kite is usually above me. But I made the rope long enough so that if the rope was right in front of the hook there is at least one inch clearance. I am only in slider mode when I am cruising around on a surfboard or riding toeside on my twin tip. If I am doing jumps and tricks that would put the rope in weird positions - I am hooked in at that point anyway. If something did get caught up for some reason, I have my primary safety release and dynabar rope has a safety release also.
Here is a video of where I got the idea. I guess racers came up with this mod. This guy welded two of the thinner rings that come with the dynabar together for extra strength. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZW2RFCVf28Y
