Yeah.. no.. I got it what they're saying, just doesn't seem like I'm doing any different, but I'll explore this further for sure. I was looking at an old Cab bar picture online and didn't seem like it's any different from my setup except the PU on the rope itself. Again not trying or being hard headed just don't necessarily see the difference.knotwindy wrote: I think what they are saying is if the QR1 is jammed up against the bar and can NOT be pushed to be released it is/could be a problem. So you need a ball or something to keep the release away from the bar to leave some room for the QR to be able to always operate.
I'm using 3/16 Amsteel which I believe is 4.7625mm and I double layered it so basically I could've hitched a ride behind Falcon Heavy with this rope before it brokeiriejohn wrote: Yes, drill out a (20mm?*) rope stopper ball (aka parrel bead) and use a grub screw to secure it over a short sleeve (20mm?*) of PU tubing over the trim lines.
If your trim rope is 5mm then you'll need a piece of PU tubing about 8mm ID so with a wall thickness of say 1mm the PU tubing will be about 10mm OD. So drill the stopper ball out to at least 10mm. It doesn't have to be pretty, it won't take any load, it's just to lock the stopper on the rope.
Don't worry about having one or two bits of rope, if you're using 5mm Dyneema the breaking load is typically over 2,000 kg so long before that load is exceeded you'd be toast. Even 3mm Dyneema breaking load is typically over 800 kg.
This makes a ton of sense and I too agree with this I'd rather see it and know when it needs replacing rather than just snapping.iriejohn wrote: Don't put PU over your trim lines because you won't see where they wear, particularly if there's sand around. I don't care what wears as long as I can see it happening.
Yeah I actually changed the D-ring I have in the pic to one of the SS rings (they're smaller) and I'm using a bungee to keep things tidy so hopefully, there won't be much flapping around, but I'm sure over time this will be an issue so it is a great idea ima steal it for my next iteration bar setup.iriejohn wrote: I put a 15mm stainless ring in the larks head connecting the QR to the trim line to thread the safety line through so that it doesn't flap around the hole in the bar.
Not used that bar but it looks like it suffers from the same flaw. The more recent Cabrinha offering looks better and space for the the release to work is built into the chicken loop:I was looking at an old Cab bar picture online and didn't seem like it's any different from my setup except the PU on the rope itself. Again not trying or being hard headed just don't necessarily see the difference.
It does indeed! they've obviously learned something over the years, not sure if I'll add the spacer area right away to be honest gona test it a bit and see how it goes first, I really like the idea of getting the entire thing closer to me and this would space it out another few inches again.
How close is too close depends on the harness being used - eg waist vs seat harness.
Hey guys when I say close I mean it but definitely not ridiculous close I tested the bar out with my harness (Ride Engine + rope) and the stretch on the spreader bar rope under load is of about 3/4" maybe an inch so this brings it real close but not to the extreme that's hitting my hips and elbows.iriejohn wrote: ↑Fri Feb 09, 2018 5:14 pmHow close is too close depends on the harness being used - eg waist vs seat harness.
I use a seat harness (ION Echo) and I have no control problems with my fully sheeted in bar sitting about 4"'/10cm from my Dynabar rope spreader.
Have 17" and 20" SS bars (both with 23m lines) which as you say are well made, strong and comfortable. Also have an older Airush Smartbar 23" bar with 27m lines for summer light winds, also nice to use. All three are base bars only rebuilt to the way I like them so no point in changing them to save a few grammes here and there.
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