Chicken Loop Bye Bye?

[br44]

I might have something that could work. My problem is attaching the Cabrinha pin to the rope, hopefully without splicing.... don't know how, seems rather complicated, rope needs to be thinner. It seems however that the pin can be tied to very thick rope with some thinner line, not load bearing and thus not needing to be very strong.

Version A offers a seemingly better way of tying the pin to the rope, and is the standard leash setup, but the picture illustrates the non-release issue when the ring is not big enough. The pin can get stuck in the ring. This may work however with a larger ring.

Version B turns the pin around.... as a result most of the the downward force on the ring is transformed into a perpendicular force on the pin. Release is cleaner too. The red line is illustrating a knot tying the pin to the rope. In particular, the red line is not load bearing.

More testing with a completed prototype is obviously needed before I can tell if this would actually work.

[tegirinenashi]

I took 4 1mm or so standard kite lines and braided it into 8-strand braid
https://www.google.com/search?q=8+strand+round+braid
(I thought that if two leader lines have enough strength, then 8 would be sufficient.

However, this is 1 hour work, and I might go with just one thick dyneema next time. (If the center line is protected inside plastic tube, then it can be much thinner, even 2 mm would be OK).

[Starsky]

@ br44:

Dude I'm sorry, but that is retarded.

Your sourced a precisely machined purpose built piece but are willing to completely mess up the implementation just to avoid a splice. That is so whack just on principal! Its a great quality piece, but the effectiveness is pretty specific to design.

As pictured:

you load it differently than intended.

you make it pivot backward from intended

you change the pivot point from intended.

you attach it with more bulk than intended

But the crying shame is that you depend on the the whole pin, tabs and all, traveling cleanly through the ring, when the very reason those little tabs exist are to stop that from happening.

Don't be surprised when is doesn't function as intended!

Might as well use an eye swage or some other cleaner pin. That particular one is sought after by people wanting to use it properly.

Sell it.

Dude, It's the release pin in your safety! Probably the wrong part to bastardize just to avoid a splice.

They're not rocket science and worth learning.

Spend the 1/2 hour on it and put it together the right way.

[jonnydiesel]

Do yourself a favor.

Learn to splice, its really easy and so much stronger/neater & satisfying

It only takes one tutorial, which is available on line.

Started splicing my own, problem lines, last summer, have not had a failure.

It takes about 5 minutes, to do a splice.

[Bushflyr]

^^What they said.

@br44, you just took what is, IMO, the best release pin on the market and totally FUBAR'd it just to avoid a simple splice. Those little "ears" are there for a reason, and it's not to wrap a loop around like you did. The way you have it rigged can cause hang-ups on release, as has been discussed previously in this thread. Splice it, do it properly, and enjoy. Splicing is SO easy that there is no reason whatsoever to do that crazy loop around thing like you have there.

[iriejohn]

I might have something that could work.

No, it will NOT work!

As said above, learn to splice - it really is very very easy. I'm in the South UK so if you live near me I'll show you how if you want.

But do NOT use your bodge, it could kill you!!!

[br44]

Thank you for the feedback!! That's why I posted it so early, without any testing, to see if someone knows better. Ok, I'll need to learn how to splice.
I also like the braiding solution - minus the work...
Thanks again.

[jannik]

Hi all,
here's another one who made a BRM copy. Mine is a switch V2 bar with swivel and trim removed and replaced by a ring with a parrel bead on the depower line and a BRM solution below the bar.

I've been surprised on how much you notice the weight loss on the lines, it really is nice. Now I want to replace the V2 stick with the much lighter V1 version but I want to regrip it and try to go without the barends. The problem is that the barends are installed with a pop rivet, as far as I can see. Does anyone know how to remove those pop rivet(drill them out?) and will it compromise the strength of the bar?

Thanks.

[grigorib]

I only hope that guys at Cabrinha/Slingshot/Ozone/North/Flysurfer follow this thread and are designing their commercially made "bye-bye chickenloop"
Short. Reliable. Sliding on the harness rope. Optionally attachable to a harness hook.

[K-Roy]

I only hope that guys at Cabrinha/Slingshot/Ozone/North/Flysurfer follow this thread and are designing their commercially made "bye-bye chickenloop"
Short. Reliable. Sliding on the harness rope. Optionally attachable to a harness hook.

+1