Faxie wrote:Looks better than the North imo, but I'm still not completely convinced. Especially about the wear on the lines.
With a regular clamcleat, you have a 4-5mm line running through. Takes a loooong time to chew up.
But on the rearlines you have what looks like to be a 2 mm line. Less tension too, so sand and debris gets between the fibers a lot more easy, so trimming where the lines are wound up in a tight radius will eat your lines from the inside.
How much testing went into this?
We have been using various designs of this bar for close to 5 years. The patents were all filed in 2012 so that would have been the earliest we would have taken the early designs out of the office to try.
The trim line is easier to replace on this bar than on our existing Control bar. You remove 4x screws, 1x bushing, 1x winder and cut the old line out. You thread in a new line, replace parts and terminate lines with overhand knots at equal distances. Re larkshead on the rear lines and slide sheath back over the connector. Probably less than 10 min if you know what you're doing. Video coming shortly.
Faxie wrote:I don't like the release mechanism too. The pin tends to flop around so you cant' get the CL in sometimes. (it's the same as the BWS right? )
This CL head is the same, yes. I've mentioned here - a bunch - that we continue to work to refine the bar. I would guess we are 12-18 months away from having a different CL head for the bar but no promises there. I find the re-set on this one quite easy but it's all personal taste.
Faxie wrote:And why no on the fly adjustable width? Thought that was the 'game changer' some years ago...
Our focus was to keep this bar as simple as possible while addressing the obvious benefits of removing the trim settings from the front lines. Original designs included bar ends that rotated to change bar size... they were left on the drawing room floor due to complications that would play back into your initial concerns mentioned above.
Faxie wrote:And what's the risk of accidentally bumping the knob, say when fishpoling or after a crash?
Each bump = 2cm of depower. So if you accidentally bump it you will loose a little bit of power mid loop. If you watch the video IKSurfMag just posted
it shows the action quite well. You will notice the knob needs to move about 5mm to disengage and rotate... so it is a pretty deliberate bump.
Faxie wrote:O and does the stopper actually work?
The stopper! Almost overlooked in all of this.
This stopper will be sold as an accessory and works great on virtually all PU tubed bars. Here is a close up. Note the opposing grip on the lower part of green and upper part of black. Using one hand you push up with your thump on the green and pull down with your index finger on the black and this loosens the grip and lets you adjust its location. Let go and the black bungee snaps it back to a lock position.