Getting ready to glass my first foam board and have a question about
wetting out multiple layers of 6 oz glass. Is it possible to wet out
three layers of 6 oz glass at once or should I wet out each layer
individually?


Fill the core with an epoxy/microbaloon mixture, paint a layer of resin on top
for a good bond, place glass on top and wet out each layer individually. You
might use more resin than the other way but the peelply/breather should take
care of that.

wet them out indevidually. You dont want to have to fight the clock!
or get ahead of yourself. Take the time to work the air out and fully wet out the first layer, then move on. remember not to over saturate on the last coat so it wont "float" on you. Any extra on the first layer/s will soak up in the last layer as it goes on.javascript:emoticon(':thumb:')

I would say to do it all at once. I assume you are using a vacuum bag (you mention peel ply & breather) I think the post above talks about working out the air bubbles which is not an issue with vac bagging.

I usually use 2x 9oz but there are benefits of 3 layers of lighter glass, I just got my 9oz s glass super cheap so I work with it. I do not lay any resin on the core first but there is no reason not too, tt will get pressed in to the core anyway. I just lay the glass on the board with 1cm of overhang on the first layer and 1-2" on the second layer. I wet the glass with resin until its clear and you can see the foam core.

The hardest part is getting the glass to form to the edge. Eric H stitches the peel on the opposite side to what you are laying up, I might try that this week. I currently use a sheet of release film (plastic sheet effectively) spray tacked to the board with heavy duty double sided sticky tape along the edge to which I stick the peel ply too as I wrap it around the board. Either way you then lay down your breather and put it in the bag.


p.bay

Seal the core, let it cure, sand it until you get a filled core, wet out the rails very wel before putting the first fabric, I don't wet the whole surface only the rails whith a brush. Put the first fabric wet it out don't be greedy on the epoxy make sure you don't have airbubbles, put the next layer wet it out etc etc. After the glass layers put your peelply, make sure you cut it nicely out so you can stretch it out nicely around the rails. First do the bottom then the top.
don't use tape because you'll cause an imprint in the laminate/foam.

I used EH's method of stitching the peel for the first time last night. I thought it was going to be hard, trying a new method for the first time. Its such a good method, I walked away from that job with a smile - its makes things so muchc easier.

Regards sealing the core, not a bad idea but not necessarily completely necessary. Dont worry about airbubbles, vacuuming will take care of them as long as they're not so big that they will cause a wrinkle when flattened.

To be honest I just lay down my layers on dry core with a bit of resin between them to stop them slipping around. I do appreciate all that wetting will gaurantee a good job but I have not had one issue doing it all at once. I got super nice edges and the glass is stuck rock solid to the core.

For some reason I did the top side first last night and it has put a little extra rocker on the board, David is 100% right about doing the bottom first.. DOH!

p.bay

What?

ow can you get extra rocker if you use a rocker table and put some weights on your board while it cures, you can't get extra rocker.

I allways wrap my rails, and allways do the top first, so that the overlap ends on top of the board. Understand? What I mean is, that when you wrap, you get an edge where the wrap ends, this you off course sand down, but I'd like to do this on top, so as to get as nice a bottom as possible.
I have never experienced more rocker than I set my table up for - can you please explain how this should happen?

What?

ow can you get extra rocker if you use a rocker table and put some weights on your board while it cures, you can't get extra rocker.

I allways wrap my rails, and allways do the top first, so that the overlap ends on top of the board. Understand? What I mean is, that when you wrap, you get an edge where the wrap ends, this you off course sand down, but I'd like to do this on top, so as to get as nice a bottom as possible.
I have never experienced more rocker than I set my table up for - can you please explain how this should happen?

if you laminate first the top you need an "inversed" rockertable, or you can vacuum the laminate and vacuum the whole thing again to your table. Otherwise I think you will get changes in your rockerline or impresses in your laminate. I prefer to do the bottom first with an overlap on top. I remove the excess of laminate on the top and grind the rest of the laminate on the top until it's equal to the foam. Then I seal the top again where I sanded it, I let it cure, sand it . On the bottom I tape the bottom dubble and protect the bottom with a plastic left over so I can remove the exceeded laminate easily afterwards and the bottom will not be contaminated with extra epoxy. wet out good the rails and laminate the top. I wet out the fabric like I did on the bottom and when done I cut the excess with good sissors until the edge of the rail so you get a minimal almost nothing on the bottom. no ribbles, no airbubbles Peel ply , bleeder, sew the bitch and vacuum it.

Vega: I should have seen that I may have a unique construction process. Here is how I work

Step 1> I laminate 2x 1/4" sheets of divinycell together with a sheet of snowboard glass (glass & carbon weave) on my convex & rocker table

That makes for a very stiff blank core that has my shape, with the verious extra stages I re-work the rocker with weights untill I get a good shape. I find that it can be hard to visualise the final board from the rocker table.

Step 2) I lay glass on either the top or bottom and overlap by 2 cm on the first layer and 2 inches on the second, I sand that side after vac bagging.

step 3) I do the same for the other side. This gives me 4 layers of glass on the edges.

step 4+) sanding then filler then sand and paint.

I'm putting together a time lapse video of the process that I may get around to publishing sometime.

I will say again that Eric Herstens 'stitch the peel ply' techique absolutely rocks

p.bay

Another method is to Prepreg
no bag hand lay up

wet out your glass on cardboard
then apply to blank wet
darker color shows dry spots better
cuts down on excess resin into blank
assures no dry spots