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Nice one Toby

here you can exchange your experience and datas about your home build boards


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pjgold123
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Nice one Toby

Postby pjgold123 » Sun Jun 22, 2003 2:25 pm

Good idea to put a board builders group here :thumb: .
Here's my stuff
I build my own lite weight timber core boards http://au.geocities.com/addictionkiteboards
I also sell a few to pay for my own kites and sponser a couple of riders.
I am more than happy to help anyone that wants help with wood boards.
The more people that give it a go the more ideas there are.
Image

Cheers
Pete
Last edited by pjgold123 on Fri Jul 11, 2003 3:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Guest

Nice sticks How do you.

Postby Guest » Mon Jun 23, 2003 8:00 pm

I checked out your site and am really impressed with the boards. Personnally I've been shapping surf boards for about 8 years and want to start trying some designs. Can you explain how you set up your cores. I think I'm all set with glass work but the cores.. got no clue. I've already decided that I'd like to shift mediums from foam and wood seams like a good step.

tHANKS in Advance

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Toby
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Postby Toby » Tue Jun 24, 2003 2:15 pm

you are welcome, Pete!

unfortunately you can't link pictures from the geocities site, so maybe you want to load them up in the gallery?
If so, let me know and I will open album for you.

Are you from Australia?

Greets
Toby

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pjgold123
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Postby pjgold123 » Wed Jun 25, 2003 8:19 am

Thanks Toby please open up a gallery for me.
Yes I am in Perth, Australia

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pjgold123
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Postby pjgold123 » Wed Jun 25, 2003 8:43 am

Hi Crush

The first thing that you need to do is find out what timber you can get in your area and also what sizes it is available in as this will determin your build method.
You need to find a light weight wood, so look for Balsa 180kg/m3, Paulownia 250kg/m3 or Western Red Cedar 350kg/m3, to give you a reference standard exterior plywood is on average 600kg/m3.
You shape the core by laminiating 2 or 3 rectangular sheets together to hold a rocker shape and concave profile if you want it.
I use epoxy and microballon mix for this and vacuum to a rocker table.
You will find that most light weight timber will come in small strips or planks rather than sheets, so what you will have to do is make 2 or 3 sheets from pieces so that when laminated you get the right thickness 15mm or less is best because of the weight.
You can use normal PVA wood glue for this as the strength is in the laminate bond.
I staple the pieces to a flat plastic lined bench until the glue sets, then pull out the staples and you have a sheet.
Once you have laminated your core together you can cut out your shape, shape your rails and give it 1 or 2 layers of 6oz cloth to protect it.

Hope this helps

Pete

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Postby Toby » Wed Jun 25, 2003 10:49 pm

Pete, check your private message.

Enjoy
Toby

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Postby cactus » Mon Jul 07, 2003 4:51 pm

Hey Pete

Great boards . I wonder I you could give me a bit of info. What is the best way to go about making a rocker table , so i can also press a concave ?

Also , do you use specialist vacume materials ? ie. bags and pump or could you recomend alternatives.

Thanks in advance.
Cactus.

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Postby not annonymous » Mon Jul 07, 2003 11:16 pm

cactus wrote:Also , do you use specialist vacume materials ? ie. bags and pump or could you recomend alternatives.
Cactus.


Vacuum bag - 4mil clear plastic sheeting (hardware store)

Tape for bag ends - I buy the $6 USD a roll mastic from fiberglasssupply.com . Duct tape did not work well for me at all.

Re-useable bag closer - for the side of the bag I made a giant zip-lock out of a piece of 7 foot piece of 3/4" cpvc which I cut into a "C" shape on a table saw. Get a piece of black rubber hose that just fits into the "C" and it works like a zip-lock bag closer. My bags last 8-10 pressings before they start to leak so the $6 roll of mastic lasts a pretty long time.

Peel ply - just about any uncoated 100% nylon or polyester fabric will work. Check the discount rack at your local fabric store. Ripstop nylon works well but latley I have been using polyester lining material which is thinner and seems to give a better finish out of the bag. Don't worry much about the color if you get it cheap but if you get white it will become transparent when it gets wet with resin so you can check your work before you cover it up with the breather.

Breather - 4oz polyester batting from the local fabric store.

Many people use a compressor pump from an air conditioner or fridge. I use a small Gast pump which I got for good deal off of E-bay.

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Postby pjgold123 » Tue Jul 08, 2003 3:13 am

Hi Cactus
I made a wood table "MDF" it consists of 3 curved bearers and a top sheet.
1 bearer down each side and 1 down the middle which is slightly higher to give the table a convex shape.
You also need to put a couple of end pieces on and a middle brace.
So you chould say its a box with an open bottom.
I do a half bag setup by that I mean I routered a slot in the top around the table close to the edge.
To use it I put the timber on the table lay a plastic sheet over it and seal it by squashing a length of tube in the slot all the way around "zip lock".
The vacuum hose comes through a hole in the table from the bottom.
You need no breather as the wood is porus.
Don't forget you must seal the MDF as it is porus.
3 sheets of 3mm or 4mm work best with this method.
A fridge pump is fine, though I now have a better one

Cheers
Pete :thumb:

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Postby cactus » Tue Jul 08, 2003 10:23 am

Hi Pete.

Thanks for the info.

I like the "half bag" idea . How does the vacume hose work , going into the bottom of the table if there is no bottom ?I don't suppose you could somehow get a diagram to me ? This sounds like a great idea , one that I could definately use. I just cant picture it in the old noggin.

Sorry to be a pain.

Thanks in advance.
Cactus.


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