Guys/Girls...

I was out riding today, and was pulled off of my board in a wierd way that snapped the deck. Initially, I thought the screws for one of the foot straps stripped... I dragged back to my board and found the straps in tact.

Basically, I rode the board for about 45 more minutes, and only discovered the top layer of the lamination with a wrinkle in it after I landed and was putting up.

The board is a 2004 Slingshot Jarvis, (I believe this board is the model that was taken after the snow board construction=sandwiched) and the wrinkle in the top lamination goes from rail to rail on the tail side of the right foot strap, directly under where the screws attach the foot strap to the board. There are no signs of cracking in any of the three layers, but I do not fully understand the layering of the board.

Structurally, I think all is sound, but I want to take steps to reinforce if necessary...

What do you guys think? Salvageable or not? Is it time to break out the Gorilla Glue?

Thanks in advance
Ian

Sounds like a standard buckled deck, except the printed graphics sheet is hiding the broken reinforcement beneath it. Can you post a picture?

it's gone, delam on the top sheet, and in these boards the glass was bonded in with the top sheets.

no doubt if you peel it off you'll see a big ass crack in the core..

Actually, I didnt...

I removed a 4 inch section of the top lamination using a straight edge and a razor. When I removed the laminate, I was surpized to see no cracking in the foam or the stringer. I filled the gap with gorilla glue, replaced the cut out laminate, clamped for pressure and viola...

Upon repair, the board had no tendency to flex at the point of repair before anywhere else...the flex is pretty uniform around the rocker of the board.

Now if I can just find that damn wind.

iAN

unless i'm missing something...

you probably delaminated or buckled the top laminate.
which is bad even if the core is still intact.

no matter. is this what happened next?
you peel out the top laminate ( cut the glass in two places)
and glue it back with rubber cement and no glass?

that's twice as bad as doing nothing.
remember the core is not designed to see much stress. The top/bottom skins are the high stress areas , especially around your feet.

if the core is still intact (hard to tell on the compression side)
you should reglass the repair area (top skin) with enough overlap to carry the load.

its always hard to guess w/o all the details or some pics.
but my guess is that it's currently toast.
nothing to lose by trying to do a 'sound ' repair.
-bill

Well....I did use Gorilla Glue, which will bond anything together with astounding strength.

I guess I can get a layer of Lamination on top, but really dont know how, nor do I know anybody with the time.

Any suggestions? The board seems as strong on that tip as it does on the other tip.

iAN

no biggy.
i'm sure you already have all of the research skills to learn how to fiberglass a small repair.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/boardbuilding/
http://www.swaylocks.com/
http://www.fibreglast.com/
http://www.boardlady.com/services.htm


The gorilla glue is certainly good enough to repair the core
and possibly good enough to bond the top skin to the core.
But the top skin that was once one piece is now 3 pieces.
the gorilla glue cant fix that.

because the glass or glass/formica in the top skin used to be 10x as strong as the glue. (not any more

what you've got will possibly last for a bit.
you did ride it for 45 mins broken.

but since you were able to break it the first time, the odds are against you getting much further without a good repair.

read that stuff.
send us a pic/description of the busted area.
and we can come up with a short shopping list of repair supplies.

most any surf shop would probably get it back together in 1-2 hours time.
once you get a handle on whats involved, you can decide how much you want to get involved.
-bill

[quote="Kite Scarecrow]Any suggestions? .[/quote]

I repaired a AHPro but the effort is probably not worth it unless you
are particulary attached to the board.
It's probably easier to make a new board if you want it to look cosmetically good as well as structurally sound

Details of a "stepped sanded repair" where the PTEX base, core and
top and bottom laminates were de-laminated on my blog:

http://hartland.org.uk/ckb/repair.htm

Cracked rail but damage extended to core as well .....

Thanks Joe,

You know, my board really didnt look like that... and when I pealed the top lamination off, there were no cracks in the core or the rails. Needless to say, I was really pleased with that.

Yesterday, I was able to get out and ride the board for about a half hour. It seemed to ride well. I wanted to stomp on the board for huge boosts, but really was acting tender on that tip.

I think I am going to glass that in for reinforcement, so now I am going to go into the links above and try to do this for my first time.

Thanks guys,
Ian