bond two sheetstogether as the fella says above then you can coat it or cover it ,an easy method is to get some spray adhesive (temp tacky kind so you can renew the layer easyer) and cover the whole surface of the rocker table then stick a layer of vac bagging plastic over that ,works a treat and enables you to have an air tight seal every time.ive had adjustable rocker tables with metal on but i didnt like the lack of adjustability even though i could just cover in release agent and away i went,with wood you can fine tune sooooo easilly , lengthening / shortening, concaves/rockerlines etc with ease. i tried many different methods but found it to be a good system as mdf is really great for forming into shape.there really isnt a right way or wrong way, all youre aiming for is acheiving a good end result. so dont be afraid to do a few experiments
with regards to layup i laminate the bottom to the core with all i need then flip it over holding it by the ends,and on to the table which is premarked so i can centralise the board. then i layup top as norm or whatever layup you use. then you vac it ,job done. if youre using certain weight fabrics they wont screw up on you when you move em(8-12 oz cloths). i have no probs with wrinkles and i can acheive perfectly flat surface laminates everytime. my boards are just a one shot proceadure and after they have been trimmed/drilled i hotcoat the deck and rails (masking of the bottom off) and then polish to perfection. i make complex shape boards and found that pre laying up laminates and using them cured/semi cured wasnt working , i think pressing under heat is a better option for that . i prefer vaccing for its ease though so im sticking with that.
mylast bit of advice would be get the best materials you can and be spot on with mixing your epoxy , these factors will make a stronger lighter board. pressed pop outs are good but you will never beat a true custom ,made to measure ,kiteboard, and when you built it its even better!!
hope all gos well for ya!