BWD wrote:umm, poster referred to fiberglass, hence lamination.
how and whether to use glass on a wooden board is another kettle of fish. I've used patches around the inserts.
Good point - I don't think its needed unless you're doing multiple layers and need reinforcement. I haven't had any blow-outs on the T-nuts with 3/8" birch ply, although I am putting epoxy in the holes before pounding the nuts in.
For a smooth finish, I simply epoxy the bottom after the top, and let the board cure bottoms-up. Any bumps/drips will be on the topside where they don't affect the ride (and can be cut off with a razor or utility knife while they're still soft).
If you're looking for a perfect build, buy a production board - homemade boards are about saving money, and the more fancy you try to make it, the more expensive it will be, both in materials and especiall in time...
Smooth Gloss finish has to do with sanding, with epoxy or poly. wet sand bumps or creases with 400, then 800 then 1600 grit. then wax with a good wax.
Yes you can get a shiny finish, But after one session your going to have Water spots, scatches.
S0 the real question is do you want a board to look at only, or one to ride.......
Yes, i agree. but there is a way to achieve both. In fact, for the speed guys, it might make a little bit of difference... without epoxy, or poly...
If you sand anything down to 1600, it would be good to go for a two stage buffing system. start with a white diamond bar and follow that up with a carnauba wax bar buff. In fact, you would probably be ok to stop at 600 grit (depending on how thorough you are at sanding.)
That would be shiny and super durable,, especially if you used some tung oil on the wood first. put a healthy coat on it, let it dry and recoat.. then let that completely dry before you buff it.
I seriously doubt water would scratch carnauba.. you would have to bang your board into something hard... rocks or such... or drag it through the sand would do it,, but here again, you could easily just buff it back out again. and the wax will waterseal the board. You may need to buff it out every ten sessions or so just to keep it in top form...
Just so there is no confusion about what i am talking about, the carnauba that surfers and such use is a blend of waxes.. stiff and thick yes, but pure carnauba wax is so hard, it must be applied with friction... ALOT of friction. you can't scratch it with your fingernail..
In my opinion just because it is cheap and easy to make doesn't mean it can't look good.
I will be making my first plywood board soon... I will post pics after it is done. I will probably paint it, so i will buff it up and snap pics before i paint it.