Here you can exchange your experience and datas about your home build boards
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Dockmonkey1
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Postby Dockmonkey1 » Wed Sep 10, 2008 3:34 am
Hi,
After you epoxy the inserts into the foam of your board. How do you access them after you lay up your layers of glass? Do you need to drill through the glass? or is there a better way that has less risk of ruining the threads of the inserts.
Thanks in advance.
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afflatus
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Postby afflatus » Wed Sep 10, 2008 5:14 am
you need to fill them with wax, or whatever so the e-pox don't f*** yo threads...
then either razor them round when the e-pox has set--but not hard...or if you're feeling lucky go for the zen aproach---trust your feelings luke, trust the force...just load a screw in the gun and bust a move...
i'd go with your A game---blade them (the holes only) free when it's still putty-ish
Like that, prep work, it's all about the prep work...
fucking tape, fucking bugs, fucking glass, fucking acetone, fucking boards...fun stuff
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JMF
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Postby JMF » Wed Sep 10, 2008 3:55 pm
Three options
1. Assuming you have steel inserts try magnetize them on a big speaker magnet over night before you put them in your board once the board is out of the bag get some iron fillings and pour them over the general area of the inserts you should have a patch where the fillings stick to inserts, giving you a ruff estimate where the inserts are.
2. Get some cold spray and spray over general area of inserts you should see a halo around the insert.
3. Make a temple and lay it over the finished product and trust your measurements.
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Dockmonkey1
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Postby Dockmonkey1 » Thu Sep 11, 2008 3:32 pm
Thanks Guys,
Those are all great ideas! I think I will try using the razor blade approch as it seems pretty simple
I do have a template so I might just use that to double check that I'm in the ball park of where I put the inserts.
Thanks again.
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BWD
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Postby BWD » Thu Sep 11, 2008 4:35 pm
Let it cure, then use countersink bit in electric drill -chamfered cut, will not touch threads.
Razor works but hard to get clean edge -can tear glass.
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afflatus
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Postby afflatus » Thu Sep 11, 2008 4:55 pm
We have a winner...
A broad shouldered counter sink is genius...
much cleaner...why didn't I think of that?
hm...thanks BWD
BWD wrote:Let it cure, then use countersink bit in electric drill -chamfered cut, will not touch threads.
Razor works but hard to get clean edge -can tear glass.
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JMF
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Postby JMF » Fri Sep 12, 2008 2:47 pm
You could also try the
High Speed cutter bits if you have a dremel.
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afflatus
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Postby afflatus » Fri Sep 12, 2008 4:39 pm
I'd skip those flat faced cutters...
they have a tendency to bite and take off leaving a trail of destruction...
counter sink... is the v shaped dude
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BWD
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Postby BWD » Fri Sep 12, 2008 4:46 pm
that looks like it would do "more than necessary," below is more like what I have used...
- countersink bit.jpg (6.21 KiB) Viewed 3900 times
It self-centers in the hole once the glass is penetrated, cuts smoothly through glass, wood and brass.
Also, if you make thin boards and use standard inserts, the inserts can end up sticking up from the deck. Grinding them down flush before glassing over will leave you with a thread thats hard to fit a screw to, especially through straps and pads. The countersink bit can chamfer the inside edges of the insert, restoring the geometry.
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Dockmonkey1
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Postby Dockmonkey1 » Fri Sep 12, 2008 5:04 pm
Wow Thanks Guys!
This is great info. I am going to see if I can pick up a counter sink bit tonight.
I'm going to do the glass on the weekend. I do use standard inserts I think the hole is about a 1/4inch on the insert. Should I get a bit the same size as the hole? So I don't drill to deep.
I did wax the inserts so resign doesn't get inside.
Thanks again everyone
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