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hi,
how thick is in the middle your full wood core board?
A comment about the flex feeling of the board is welcome too.

My 130X39 hommemade for example, is spruce16 mm thick & it feels stiff

Thanks

i bet it feels heavy, as well.

1/2 inch (13mm) is probably acceptable for pawlonia or balsa or cedar.

the cedar probably needs little or no glass, the balsa needing the most and the pawlonia somewhere in the middle.


tapering the ends will improve the flex ,
max stress and the need for reinforcement (or thickness) will still be in the vicinity of your feet.

spruce is a lot heaver ( and stronger) than any of the above 3 examples.

regards,
-bill

Bill,
good info, thanks for the reply.

you re right about the weight.
the wood i used is about 410kg/m3 (while balsa is 110 (?) & paulwnia 300-350), so the core+inserts weighted about 2100gr.
paulonia is way too excotic -hard to find here, so poplar would be my choice if i was to buy wood.
anyway i had this well dried white spruce for free, so i used it.
core is tapered at the tips.
.


to make the board softer i am thinkin to route flat the top between the foot, so loose 3-4 mm of core



& then reglass that part.

thanx again

I see you are doing core construction similar to 08 and 09 North boards. I would suggest you trie Aboards or Nobile like core. I did both on my 4 boards (2 of each), and I ended up repairing the North like boards to Nobile like and I got better driving characteristics.

BR,
Zob

zob wrote:I see you are doing core construction similar to 08 and 09 North boards

very right Zob!

So what you didnt like about that design is related to the overal thin rail?
i think my board came stiff due to that "fold" on the skin where the rail is thined.

I ve tried the 555 nobile & really liked it. never had a chance to ride an Aboard though.

No everything about the lower deck is fine, and the taper of the core.
The thing that bothered me on my board is the tip of the core , that looks like 2 wings. This should make some fine tuned flex to the tips, but that V cut in the middle doesen't help at all so the tips stay to stiff, or to be exact the tips flex, but it doesen't prolong along the rail. Since I fixed this core tips it rides better!

cool,

poplar

FWIW I think poplar is what Slingshot uses in their TT boards (some at least),
combined with (?)corecell (or similar color foam at least).
The wood is in wide stringers, take up around 30-50% of the width between the feet, I saw it in one of the cut in half boards displayed at the local megakitemart.
If it is not poplar it looks incredibly similar, at least. The board was a "misfit" and I believe made in USA, so probably a good option if you are in the USA, available and not too pricy.
my 2c...

tal wrote:hi,
how thick is in the middle your full wood core board?
A comment about the flex feeling of the board is welcome too.

My 130X39 hommemade for example, is spruce16 mm thick & it feels stiff

Thanks

I basically make boards of ash tree. In thickest peace board core are not thicker than 10mm... In tips- 2-3mm... Boards are quite heavy 140x44cm=4kg, but not stiff...

I'm not quite sure about the use of poplar wood, because it is known to be a litle bit waxier and therefore harder to bond.

zob wrote:I'm not quite sure about the use of poplar wood,
because it is known to be a litle bit waxier and therefore harder to bond.

That's not completely true, I am working with Ski Snowboard industry
for 20y and we are using a lot of polar wood in connection with some other
woods mixture! Never hear the problem of bonding. But there is another point
with poplar, this wood is growing the best on the relative high humidity areas
and must to be proper dryed, if not you can respect some troubles in production!
On the kiteboards coming weary popular the Paulwnia and can be used the Samba,
Abachi, Okume too. So the gates are open go ahead!
dr.Lojz