Contact   Imprint   Advertising   Guidelines

new to the sport and building

here you can exchange your experience and datas about your home build boards


vegasrider
Medium Poster
Posts: 168
Joined: Tue Dec 15, 2009 12:03 pm
Kiting since: 2003
Local Beach: St. Peter Ording
Brand Affiliation: North

Re: new to the sport and building

Postby vegasrider » Sat Feb 20, 2010 3:53 pm

Also thought about building during wintertime... could you give some more detailed info on the steps you did ?

wavebreaker
Rare Poster
Posts: 22
Joined: Sat Jan 23, 2010 7:22 am
Kiting since: 2009
Brand Affiliation: None
Location: Victoria BC Canada

Re: new to the sport and building

Postby wavebreaker » Sat Feb 20, 2010 5:07 pm

Laughingman,
I routed the grove in the board to cast my epoxy/flox into.The exterior of the Blue/epoxy is the outside profile of the board. Once the board comes off the vacuum table i cut away the excess cedar from around the blue epoxy.
The purpose of the epoxy/flow is it will become my rails,i did not like the idea of using abs for my rails i prefer something that i think is more compatible with my overall build up. Though people use abs for rails with great success.
I built my edge this way so that when the board went into the vacuum i would get a nice flat bond to the rails. no chance of the cloth not laying completely flat on the rails .

the 2 previous pictures posted to the vacuum table shots show top and bottom of board the blue/epoxy is exposed only the excess cedar is left around the outside of the board.
On the vacuum table you can not see the blue because of t he breather material on top of board under plastic.

User avatar
Laughingman
Very Frequent Poster
Posts: 2600
Joined: Mon Mar 16, 2009 4:35 pm
Kiting since: 2009
Local Beach: Kp, MBay, Rond
Favorite Beaches: Kp, MBay, Rond, Long Bay, Cayo Guillermo
Gear: Ocean Rodeo Gen4 Flites 10m, 12m and 14.5m, 2016 Prodigy 5m and 7m
Xeon Laluz, 2010 OR Mako Wide 150, Mako Classic 150, Jellyfish Custom surf board quad fin 6'
Engine Custom Harness and sliding hook setup
Location: Southwestern Ontario

Re: new to the sport and building

Postby Laughingman » Sat Feb 20, 2010 6:45 pm

Thanks for the explanation Wavebreaker!
So you did in fact sand the board on both top and bottom enough to expose the expoxy/flox rail, so that the cedar does not come to the outside edge of the rail? If so, what would you use to sand that amount of wood away? Belt sander or planer comes to mind but....


wavebreaker wrote:Laughingman,
I routed the grove in the board to cast my epoxy/flox into.The exterior of the Blue/epoxy is the outside profile of the board. Once the board comes off the vacuum table i cut away the excess cedar from around the blue epoxy.
The purpose of the epoxy/flow is it will become my rails,i did not like the idea of using abs for my rails i prefer something that i think is more compatible with my overall build up. Though people use abs for rails with great success.
I built my edge this way so that when the board went into the vacuum i would get a nice flat bond to the rails. no chance of the cloth not laying completely flat on the rails .

the 2 previous pictures posted to the vacuum table shots show top and bottom of board the blue/epoxy is exposed only the excess cedar is left around the outside of the board.
On the vacuum table you can not see the blue because of t he breather material on top of board under plastic.

wavebreaker
Rare Poster
Posts: 22
Joined: Sat Jan 23, 2010 7:22 am
Kiting since: 2009
Brand Affiliation: None
Location: Victoria BC Canada

Re: new to the sport and building

Postby wavebreaker » Sun Feb 21, 2010 12:13 am

Vegasrider,
Basically the steps as follows.
made pattern of the board I wanted, cut it 3/4 of an inch smaller all around, this is for routing the edge grove for my epoxy/flox edge.
(2) cut and glued my cedar strips together using a basic yellow carpenters glue, strips were cut 2 mm thicker than what i wanted finished in the center.

(3) hand planed and sanded one side of the blank to give me a working flat surface.
(4) used double sided tape to hold pattern on blank to route grove for epoxy/flox. I cut the grove almost completely through the board about 2mm short of the bottom side.
(5)did my layout for fin placement straps and handles.
(6) cast epoxy rails and epoxy in inserts and fill areas for fins.
(7) Using a template I made for my router to cut my top curve, I routed the top of the board to finished profile 11mm at center tapering in gentle curve to 3 mm at edge.
(8) sanded board down top and bottom, applied glass cloth and epoxy to board set in vacuum table/rocker table.
That’s basically where it is at now I will leave it in there for a couple days to let epoxy set up so I don’t lose to much rocker due to spring back.

Hope it helps.

wavebreaker
Rare Poster
Posts: 22
Joined: Sat Jan 23, 2010 7:22 am
Kiting since: 2009
Brand Affiliation: None
Location: Victoria BC Canada

Re: new to the sport and building

Postby wavebreaker » Sun Feb 21, 2010 12:18 am

Laughingman,

When i cast the rail i did so from the bottom up.so it was exposed on the bottom at first.
I flipped the board over and with the use of a profile jig i made for my router, cut the top profile of the board.
11mm at center tapering in a gentle curve to 3mm at edge.
I will take a picture of the jig on my building table later and post it.

User avatar
Laughingman
Very Frequent Poster
Posts: 2600
Joined: Mon Mar 16, 2009 4:35 pm
Kiting since: 2009
Local Beach: Kp, MBay, Rond
Favorite Beaches: Kp, MBay, Rond, Long Bay, Cayo Guillermo
Gear: Ocean Rodeo Gen4 Flites 10m, 12m and 14.5m, 2016 Prodigy 5m and 7m
Xeon Laluz, 2010 OR Mako Wide 150, Mako Classic 150, Jellyfish Custom surf board quad fin 6'
Engine Custom Harness and sliding hook setup
Location: Southwestern Ontario

Re: new to the sport and building

Postby Laughingman » Sun Feb 21, 2010 12:52 am

Dude! Your awesome for sharing!
Things are falling into place for me now, I think I have the basics but when you question what you think you know, it is so hard to get started. What you have explained below makes total sense to me, I would love to see how the jig you built, it will pull all the pieces together for me. Looking forward to the next set of pics and thanks again for your patience and time.

Sincerely

Pete




wavebreaker wrote:Laughingman,

When i cast the rail i did so from the bottom up.so it was exposed on the bottom at first.
I flipped the board over and with the use of a profile jig i made for my router, cut the top profile of the board.
11mm at center tapering in a gentle curve to 3mm at edge.
I will take a picture of the jig on my building table later and post it.

wavebreaker
Rare Poster
Posts: 22
Joined: Sat Jan 23, 2010 7:22 am
Kiting since: 2009
Brand Affiliation: None
Location: Victoria BC Canada

Re: new to the sport and building

Postby wavebreaker » Mon Feb 22, 2010 1:00 am

Laughingman
Heres some shots of the jig i use, pretty basic it slides up and down the length of the table.
Fixed curve made for this particular board.

also picture of the board. ready to final sand add my color scheme.
15.JPG
15.JPG (51.99 KiB) Viewed 838 times
16.JPG
16.JPG (51.26 KiB) Viewed 838 times
14.JPG
14.JPG (54.03 KiB) Viewed 838 times

User avatar
Laughingman
Very Frequent Poster
Posts: 2600
Joined: Mon Mar 16, 2009 4:35 pm
Kiting since: 2009
Local Beach: Kp, MBay, Rond
Favorite Beaches: Kp, MBay, Rond, Long Bay, Cayo Guillermo
Gear: Ocean Rodeo Gen4 Flites 10m, 12m and 14.5m, 2016 Prodigy 5m and 7m
Xeon Laluz, 2010 OR Mako Wide 150, Mako Classic 150, Jellyfish Custom surf board quad fin 6'
Engine Custom Harness and sliding hook setup
Location: Southwestern Ontario

Re: new to the sport and building

Postby Laughingman » Mon Feb 22, 2010 2:30 am

Okay, now I am in your movie... I like how you have incorporated the use of a router into this, we have a 4 x 10 router table at work I could probably have it do most of the work. It has a camera on it so I can move the the slab to do the epoxy and flox and then just throw it back on to finish the shaping. I'm not sure if I can program it to do the curve but linear I certainly can, I may have some sanding to do afterward to smooth out the shape.

How much spring back can you expect when you remove the board from the vacuum, I noticed you had quite a lot of rocker on the table, it would help to know what rocker you were trying to achieve and how much extra rocker you added to achieve it.

Thanks again for your time and help... now that I understand the easy parts, I need to figure out the hard part... glassing, and vacuum table.... ugh

Sincerely

Pete

wavebreaker
Rare Poster
Posts: 22
Joined: Sat Jan 23, 2010 7:22 am
Kiting since: 2009
Brand Affiliation: None
Location: Victoria BC Canada

Re: new to the sport and building

Postby wavebreaker » Mon Feb 22, 2010 3:37 am

Hi again Laughingman.

I figured i would lose some where around 25-30% of the rocker doing it the way i did.
I was not to far off i lost around 30%
Started at 4cm ended at 2.5 or so.
4-30%=2.8 so pretty close.

it is a lite wind board so i did not need alot of rocker to it.
Also my rocker is a 3 stage
center is flat with 1.5cm of concave.

glassing and vacuum table are easy.

:lol:

User avatar
JandoF
Medium Poster
Posts: 104
Joined: Wed Nov 15, 2006 5:48 pm
Kiting since: 0
Brand Affiliation: None
Location: Guadalajara, Mexico
Contact:

Re: new to the sport and building

Postby JandoF » Mon Feb 22, 2010 6:25 am

Once again IMPRESIVE job here!

wavebreaker wrote:
glassing and vacuum table are easy.

:lol:


haha for you of course :D do you have any good link were I can learn about VACUUM techniques :thumb:


Return to “Board Builders”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests