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 Post subject: 135x 40 poplar cored v-baged board
PostPosted: Mon May 31, 2010 11:21 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 4:39 am
Posts: 544
Working on a new 135 x 40 ish 1/4 inch poplar strip cored board. Have pics of the bag proc but nothing of the core build.

Started off thickness plaining the poplar boards so the outside is nice and bonable. This will be the space between the strips that get glued together. Set up the table saw with the fence at 1/4 inch. Ripped the 1/4 inch thick strips. I glued them together with poly urithane glue. Did this in time intervals as I couldn't clamp them all at once. I did this on the rocker table thinking it would put the rocker and concave in the board. Didn't realy work. Just made it hard to put together and made the core slightly twisted. Hope this dosn't stay after glassing. Will make the next one flat. Sanding sanding sanding and a little plaining. At this point I have a 1/4 inch plank. Traced the outline onto the board and cut it out with a bandsaw. At this point it's a kiteboard shaped plank. Next poaring the rails.

I used the cut off sections to build a channel around 1/4inch thick around the board. This will be the rail. I also drilled out spaces for the strap inserts and the fins. I used crapy non rust proof 6mm t nut inserts and filled them with wax. I'll drill them all the way through after glassing. This should let me check them for rust and lube the bottom. Need to find a better alternative. The handle I didn't put a t-nut in just west 404 high density filler with west 107 epoxy. I'm going to try and tap a threaded insert into the filled epoxy. It may or may not work. Back to the rails. I made up a batch of west 107 epoxy and thickened it to a mayo like consistancy and poared it into the chanel along with all the other wholes. Cured and trimmed off the wood with the bandsaw. I then got out some 60 grit drywall sanding screen and rounded the rails out a bit. Kind of between a true bull nose round and a square rail. Flamed on my name on the top just for fun. Don't know if that will weaken the glue but if makes a whole the vacuum will pull resin into the cracks.
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Now the dark art of rocker table. I'm building this board with 1.5 inches continuous rocker and around 5/8ths concave at the center and flat at the tips. To set the curve I simply used a 1/4 inch strip and placed nails at the ends of the 2x4 at the tips and another three in the center 1.5 inches down at the center. This produced a nice rocker line. I traved it on the 2x4 and cut it out twice. One for each side of the table. I then did the same thing again on a 1 inch board but with 5/8ths less rocker for the center concave stick. I then screwed the boards together at the ends. For the top I used thin brown fiber board and screwed it to the outside edges with deck screwes. I counter sunk them to make sure the heads are flush. I then placed some lexan or some thing like that as a hard smooth surface. Can't recal what kind of plastick it is but it dosn't stick to epoxy and it's a bitch to cut without breaking. Screwed that down with neopreen washers at the edges. Table is ready now. I gave enough space to put the board on and mastic tape but will make it wider next time and maybe adjustable. I can reuse this rocker table for a wake skate project next or build a new larger adjustable one next.
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All set to start glassing. The bagging set up is powered by a Viot 5.5 cfm, 15 micron ultimate vacuum, 1/2 hp. It's rated for continous use and I think it is a double vane two stage pump. China knock off pump number one! Funny funny instructions. Not to great on the how to fill with oil or use but quite funny. Hasn't burst into flames yet and it's going strong after 3 hours now. Next is the resin trap. I decided to make one with charcol to filter out any resin fumes. Built it out of a stanley thermous 1/2L jug for hot and cold liquids. Drilled two ports in the top and placed 1/4inch brass pipes in. One long to the bottom and curved and one just at the top. I then used water filter's that I broke open as I couldn't find a open fishtank supply store. It worked but is more expensive and the carbon is a bit fine. Need to use more breather fabric to filter out the carbon from the vacuume line. The air going into the trap comes in through the carbon and is filtered up to the top. Any epox or fumes will get traped I hope I hope I hope. I used 1/4inch npt air line fittings and west system 1/4inch internal diameter hose. Ball valve in the system near the table end. The bag connects with a west system suction cup. Cheap alternative to the two part systems that the pros use. Mastic on the joints to cover any leaks.
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Now the bagging and glassing. First setting up all the parts and cuts. I cut out the glass, release fabric, breather and bag film. I marked it at the center and made sure it covers the outline I drew on thte table. I then rolled each end to the center like a scroll. Next I placed the mastic seal tape around the edges (the yellow goopy thick tape stuf). Covered the table with liquid mold release agent.

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Now epoxy. A note on safty. I use a 3m dual cartridge mask when epoxy and sanding. Any time you sand the epoxy fillers you have to have a mask on. Bad shit will happen to your lungs if you don't. Also epoxy can give you a nice pair of boobs and a head ache if you inhail to much. For the lamination I'm using system three surfboard epoxy. It dries clear and is medium speed cure.

Started off mixing 6oz of epoxy in 2:1 ratio. Pored it into a flat plastic painting tray to keep it thin in the pot and not build up heat. Mixed it for 1 min. Started a 37min countdown clock. DUN DUN (sound). Brushed out a thin layer over the area to be glassed so the outside will be nice and smooth and filled. First layer down is 4Oz. Better to fill in the twill. Squeeged out each layer. Was going to do it all in one shot but no time. Just made the 37 min mark working out the epoxy. 4 then 6 then 6 Oz fabric layup. Placed the core on top then nylon release fabric. Feals like tafita fabric. Then Placed the breater fabric. It feals like banting. Folded over a section to put the cup on with a second layer down the center to move the vacuume down the board. Removed the mastic tape backing and placed the bag on top. Notice the arrow pointing to the pleate. The bag needs to be oversized. Used a section of mastic to glue the fold together. Placed the cup on with a cut under it. Placed mastic around the cup. I then pushed down all the wholes and leaks. After I found all the leaks bingo bango sucking happens. How the waiting. I'm around 4 hours into cure now and the remainder in the tray is dentable but not tacky. I can remove the bag and do the second layer soon.

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Now it's Miller time!

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 Post subject: Re: 135x 40 poplar cored v-baged board
PostPosted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 11:52 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 4:39 am
Posts: 544
Size is actualy 133 x 40.

Tested out the board on Friday. Just a little down wind slog but it was fun. Plenty of pop. Not to heavy. Around 6.5lb with my bathroom scale using the cat weight technique. Weigh me then me and board. Supper flexi all the way across the board. I'm going to leave it that way for now to see how it works in chop. May add a few 2 inch strips of 12oz carbon on the between the feet area if I need less flex.

Now pics!
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