One thing you would be sacrificing would be any sort of concave unless you pre-shaped that into the core of course, could be a real test of your shaping ability
My table is totally flexible from tip to tip and my vacuum comes from four points on the table that assure I have somewhat of an even vacuum around the whole table.
--JMF-- I Kinda see Why/How, you were able to do 42kts VMAX over the water with a kite;
you analyze problems well !!
On the concave thing :
I watched a wind-surfer shaper do this ; after he got the bottom flat to his specks, he
marked the apex where the concave met the bottom for each groove & placed 1/2" wide
tape over them so as Not to destrou the lines with his sandpaper.
Then he marked the center of the concave and the depth,(which changed along it's length)
He made tapered guides on his table-saw & taped them down for each side of his router
to run on.
He placed a 1/4" thick movable guide for the side of his router, to get a straight line.
all he had to do was run the router the length of his board at the deepest setting down the
center of his concave, & move the edge guide and readjust the bit depth for the next
run and so on, till he only cut almost nothing as he approached the sides for his concave.
Now he has a bunch of 1/8" wide router grooves marking the bottom of his concave, so
he runs a felt-tip marker on the bottom of each and breaks out his hand shaping equipment.
Another way would be to make a curved sanding block matching the radious of your concave
with sides that you can run down the length of the board on your tapered guides. Just use 3M-77 to glue the sandpaper to your sanding block. Start with 50g then keep getting finer. I use This one "A Lot" !!
Run "layers" of tape on your guides for the heavier grit paper,to make-up for the different
thickness in the sandpaper, so the final is Not deeper than anticipated.
On your Vacuum table ; for an Aircraft quality part :
I usually place peel-ply on the side where the Bag goes..
Then i place a breather blanket or( Baby blanket) ON TOP of the Peel-ply, then
the vacuum bag goes over everything.
click on the pic here to see what it looks like,( i've seen couch stuffing material
at Wall-mart, that looks similar) it's made of polyester :http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... her+Fabric
This accomplishes TWO things :
1) it distributes the vacuum evenly over the entire part
2) you can now make your ((fiber / resin)) content 50/50 or 100g of resin
for each 100g of fiber and it will saturate your carbon or glass to wet-out very fast;
((this is WAY too much resin)) would make the part Brittle !!
use the blue shop towels & place toilet paper inside to blot out any major excess resin,
be careful here -- you can blot out Too much real fast, making the part weak !
Don't let the toilet paper touch the part !
Here is where the baby blanket comes into play. Any excess resin will pass Through
the Peel-ply and get absorbed into the baby blanket, during the vacuum stage . Your
part will end up with the PERFECT amount of fiber/resin ratio for Ultimate strength capable
of the fibers chosen !!!
Do "NOT" let that breather material touch the part !!
There "Must" be Peel-ply between the part & the baby blanket,(ask me how i know this) ?
Fricken sanded Two Hours to get that resin soaked SH*T off my part !!!
With the peel-ply between the part & the breather material ; it comes