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 Post subject: control bar
PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 6:30 pm 
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I was wondering if anyone has made a control bar from scratch (a modern one)? These seem to be one of the more expensive parts (unecessarily so), and most of the bits can be had at a marine store except for the bar itself and fly-lines. Am-steel is cheap and plentiful and I have more than a little bit of experience eye-splicing the stuff.

I ask because I have a handful of older slingshot bars and I like the design and have a plethora of spare parts for them, but I recently had my 20" fail on me and I'd rather not buy a whole new bar when I have literally everything brand new sitting around except for the bar itself. I can find 17" cores, and I have a 17, but I don't like using it on my 12m. I was thinking about getting a 22mm dia aluminum shaft, or perhaps even a 22mm OD carbon shaft and concocting something. I even have spare vinyl end pieces so the only difficult part would be making the flaired out pass-through.


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 Post subject: Re: control bar
PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 7:14 pm 
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Quote:
the only difficult part would be making the flaired out pass-through.

Indeed that is where machining, bonding, custom castings, and cnc cutting are sometimes used.
You could also attach a fairlead eye to the bar with heavy duty stainless hose clamps and preserve all the bar's strength. But it wouldn't look as cool or spin the same. And you would have to cover the clamps to avoid shredding your fingers. Did it once though, it worked.


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 Post subject: Re: control bar
PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 7:34 pm 
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BWD wrote:
Quote:
the only difficult part would be making the flaired out pass-through.

Indeed that is where machining, bonding, custom castings, and cnc cutting are sometimes used.
You could also attach a fairlead eye to the bar with heavy duty stainless hose clamps and preserve all the bar's strength. But it wouldn't look as cool or spin the same. And you would have to cover the clamps to avoid shredding your fingers. Did it once though, it worked.


I have no doubt I could do something perfectly fine with a die grinder. I've ported a few cylinder heads.

My SS bars appear to have cast centers. The material is quite soft and easy to polish with some fine sand paper. I'm wondering how strong they really need to be...


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 Post subject: Re: control bar
PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 8:07 pm 
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t3rse wrote:
I was wondering if anyone has made a control bar from scratch (a modern one)?

I haven't, but I have modified a stock bar to turn it into a super long throw bar. After I did that, I realised how simple control bars can be. I'm tempted to modify my control bar even further to remove all the stuff I don't need (the spinner for the front lines and the junk at the Y). I might even remove the depower/trim, seeing as I don't need or use it anymore. So, at that point the whole control system is basically a bar with lines and very little else. It seems like a very easy thing to create your own DIY version of.

t3rse wrote:
Am-steel is cheap and plentiful and I have more than a little bit of experience eye-splicing the stuff.

What kind of splice are you using? I was wanting to make an eye in Amsteel not too long ago, but couldn't use a bury splice because I did not have enough length for a full bury. But I couldn't find a good tutorial on how to do a weaved splice with 12 strand rope. Any tips would be appreciated!


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 Post subject: Re: control bar
PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 9:01 pm 
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cleepa wrote:
t3rse wrote:
I was wondering if anyone has made a control bar from scratch (a modern one)?

I haven't, but I have modified a stock bar to turn it into a super long throw bar. After I did that, I realised how simple control bars can be. I'm tempted to modify my control bar even further to remove all the stuff I don't need (the spinner for the front lines and the junk at the Y). I might even remove the depower/trim, seeing as I don't need or use it anymore. So, at that point the whole control system is basically a bar with lines and very little else. It seems like a very easy thing to create your own DIY version of.

t3rse wrote:
Am-steel is cheap and plentiful and I have more than a little bit of experience eye-splicing the stuff.

What kind of splice are you using? I was wanting to make an eye in Amsteel not too long ago, but couldn't use a bury splice because I did not have enough length for a full bury. But I couldn't find a good tutorial on how to do a weaved splice with 12 strand rope. Any tips would be appreciated!


How did you go about extending it?

I use long buries with lock stiching. If you are methodical, you can overlap long buries. I've got the length sorted through trial and error but when you double up the buries it shortens it considerably. Once I get one that works I make a template and cut and do the tapers after I pull it through (way past where it will sit). Get the overlap done first with a few inches extra before tapering and then when you seat it it will sit nicely. I've made pigtails like this as well. Also, you can go a little shorter on the bury (rather than the 73 fid diameter standard) if you are using over-rated rope without ill effects.


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 Post subject: Re: control bar
PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 12:25 am 
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t3rse wrote:
How did you go about extending it?

I replaced the whole depower line, chicken loop and depower cleat. Basically, I increased the length of the depower line. Because I lengthened the depower line, I had to increase the length of the back lines, too. I've now got 36 inches of throw, which is why I never bother using the depower/trim strap. By the time I am feeling overpowered, it is time to switch to a smaller kite!

Thanks for the info on splicing.


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 Post subject: Re: control bar
PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 12:46 pm 
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cleepa wrote:
t3rse wrote:
How did you go about extending it?

I replaced the whole depower line, chicken loop and depower cleat. Basically, I increased the length of the depower line. Because I lengthened the depower line, I had to increase the length of the back lines, too. I've now got 36 inches of throw, which is why I never bother using the depower/trim strap. By the time I am feeling overpowered, it is time to switch to a smaller kite!

Thanks for the info on splicing.


Oh Ok. I was thinking you increased the length of the bar itself.

I've called around quite a bit and no one can get me a bar core, so it looks like I'm going to source some marine grade aluminum and have a go.


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 Post subject: Re: control bar
PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 3:46 pm 
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Location: Ford Lake, Michigan
t3rse wrote:
I've called around quite a bit and no one can get me a bar core, so it looks like I'm going to source some marine grade aluminum and have a go.



it's very easy to get a control bar, at the launch if I'm making a new bar I just yell out, "Sell me your old control bar for $10" and I usually end up with 2 or 3. kiters have so much garbage in their closet.

You can also go on ebay and buy an old fashioned control bar with a poor safety mechanism (like those awful velcro things), maybe get some decent lines too for about $25 but you might have to wait until a listing shows up.

I wouldn't bother machining a control bar unless you like doing it. If you do make your own bar because you are in a hurry, just bolt an O bolt like was said before for a temporary control bar until you can find a $10 one.

Or you can post an offer on the forum, you might be able to get a half dozen control bars for free if you pay the postage.

I don't like building my own bars cores because it is so easy to get some used ones. Everything else I like making the leaders the safety mechanism stuff like that I'll do.


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 Post subject: Re: control bar
PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 4:57 pm 
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edt wrote:
t3rse wrote:
I've called around quite a bit and no one can get me a bar core, so it looks like I'm going to source some marine grade aluminum and have a go.



it's very easy to get a control bar, at the launch if I'm making a new bar I just yell out, "Sell me your old control bar for $10" and I usually end up with 2 or 3. kiters have so much garbage in their closet.

You can also go on ebay and buy an old fashioned control bar with a poor safety mechanism (like those awful velcro things), maybe get some decent lines too for about $25 but you might have to wait until a listing shows up.

I wouldn't bother machining a control bar unless you like doing it. If you do make your own bar because you are in a hurry, just bolt an O bolt like was said before for a temporary control bar until you can find a $10 one.

Or you can post an offer on the forum, you might be able to get a half dozen control bars for free if you pay the postage.

I don't like building my own bars cores because it is so easy to get some used ones. Everything else I like making the leaders the safety mechanism stuff like that I'll do.


So hook a brother up!

It really wouldn't take me long to come up with something pseudo professional (and I might be out 25$). I was thinking about knurling some 5086. I'll post just for giggles. The caveat is I'll either need a 22mm OD bar or else one that has the ends still attached. I actually discovered a crack in the nylon end on my SS bar after I dissasemebled it that I would not have seen with it together.


I've got lines and CLs aplenty. I really just need a 20" bar to put my rigging on.


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 Post subject: Re: control bar
PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 6:01 pm 
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Location: Ford Lake, Michigan
I don't have any spare bars right now, if I get more I'll give you one.


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