My Build Project is "All by Hand".
I purchased a few tools and a 48L x 24W "Baltic Birch" Plywood board from the Local Home Depot. I also did some on-the-spot research and found that the board was 18mm thick, and, that it was a Marine Grade board, complete with Marine Grade Glue bonding the plys together.
The tools I got, we're Three Wood Rasps, with chisel tips. Three packages of Sandpaper, 100 Grit, #50 Grit, and 220 Grit. All to keep a low start-up budget. I walked out spending $50.
Day 1. I took the boards and sat around contemplating which type of board I should start out with. After an Hour or Two of giving it some thought. I got frustrated with the ideas flying at warp speed through the back of my mind, grabbed the hand saw, and whacked off the Two Corners at the Top and then began rasping the edges, round.
I was content. The overall picture was starting to take shape.
Since, I had spent a good portion of the first few hours, drawing on the board. Shaping the board into what now looks like a miniature Surfboard. The time was well spent.
Day two, was involved with more rasping.
As, I found a Web-Site that mentioned, that all the Rocker and Concave of Surfboards and such were not required for the project, I was intrigued at the outcome that was coming in to view.
The Web-Site, was called KiteSurfingSchool(.com) or something. It was an unbranded sort of site, thrown together by a Hobbyist KiteSurfer. That mentioned that Kiteboards didn't need any rocker or concave, and that Flat was the way to go, due to being pulled through the water and plain and simply put, skimming over the top. I agreed.
For sealing the board up. I found a few folks that keep referring to "Man O War" Spar Varnish. Everyone, says, that this stuff is the best. But, when I looked it up and read the details. It strictly notes that the stuff is not for Applications that are in direct contact with the Water, not for under the water line or anything of the sorts. Plus, I know a lot of folks say that if one were to just do several coats, everything'll work out great.
But, I'm not one that's short of a paddle up and up the river. I know that there's a recipe of sorts on the internet, that's been used for protecting wood, that sits under the water line.
I just couldn't pop it off the top o mi head.
The stuff is called "Pine Tar" the old fashioned recipe for making this stuff, is really quite simple. Grant it, so long as you can find some Pine Stumps and Pine Roots, all you need to do, is slowly burn it in a barrel and let the liquid sute drip out of the bottom and into a catch-all system. And, Voila we have Pine Tar! Or, you can scour the World by way of the Wide Web and it should make it's presence known.
Secondly, there's a few other items on the list, to make the show go over swell. One is Linseed Oil, boiled or raw. Another is turpentine, and the third is Japan Dryer. Mixing these in equal portions gives one a Gallon or so of a "300 Year Old" Recipe for Protecting Wood in the Water.
Tung Oil is another item, that can be substituted for the Linseed Oil, and has a greater worth and value for water proofing wood. Plus, I'll recommend to not take my words for it all, cause there lacking a lot, like pints and quarts, safety precautions, and flammability warnings.
So, once I'm done sanding this project down to "Slick-As-Snot" smooth. I'll be taking chances and brewing up a bath of this "300 Year Old" Varnish recipe.
For a few tips and tricks, I found a few things on the Internet that everyone'll probably enjoy.
Like, how to Put Graphics on the board.
Once you get the first Coat on. (Although, I prefer a good coat or five). You can run off some Graphics on Paper, and then apply the graphics directly on to the boar, then apply several more coats of varnish, right over the top. The Paper will seem to blend right in and dissaper, leaving the graphic vividly in plain sight.
Another idea, is using an Electric Planer, some Hardwood Glue, and a saw. Taking Lumber and cutting it into strips, then gluing the strips together, which'll turn the One Inch Thick Lumber into a Two Inch Piece of Lumber. Add it all up to make a Board any length, any width, and anywhere from an Inch to Three Inches thick. After there all glue together with any stringers, nose pieces, and leash plug/ fun slots. Cut down and hollow it out, then glue it back together again. For a Hollow Wood Board, that's lightweight, strong, and hand fashioned by yourself and your friends.
And, lastly - don't forget to write your e-mail address on it. Incase it's lost or found.
My Building Project - Rambo, First Board.