Kiteforum.com

Hey, so I decided to do a kiteboard size of 131x42cm, then I want to try something bigger, about 165 cm in small wind. The core is made of poplar thickness at the edge of the middle 9 mm and 6 mm. Photo'll gradually next week laminates. So far, price boards zero zero nothing

Looking good ! what is your lay up going to be?

Something about working with wood has always made me feel good , be
it a board or a cabinet .

Your work looks Great !!

Bille

hello.
for zero-industries:
from the bottom
Diolen fabric - black 200 g/m2 twill 2/2
Glass fabric 102g/m2 canvas AEROGLASS
Glass fabric 80g/m2 AEROGLASS twill 2/2
The core of wood
Cross unidirectional carbon fiber grid connected 50K 125g/m2, 10 cm waist 2 times.
Glass fabric 80g/m2 AEROGLASS twill 2/2
Glass fabric 102g/m2 canvas AEROGLASS
Diolen fabric - black 200 g/m2 twill 2/2

the Bill:
The first time is quite an interrogation. este mam core doors on the size of 165x50 ...
it is a nice job and the rubbing resin, it makes me very tired

Raslikk wrote:
...

the Bill:
The first time is quite an interrogation. este mam core doors on the size of 165x50 ...
it is a nice job and the rubbing resin, it makes me very tired

YES -- but the Well worth the effort for future projects :
It gets Easier , after Ya done a few ;
just "Keep" That Passion going !!!

Bille

Raslikk wrote:hello.
for zero-industries:
from the bottom
Diolen fabric - black 200 g/m2 twill 2/2
Glass fabric 102g/m2 canvas AEROGLASS
Glass fabric 80g/m2 AEROGLASS twill 2/2
The core of wood
Cross unidirectional carbon fiber grid connected 50K 125g/m2, 10 cm waist 2 times.
Glass fabric 80g/m2 AEROGLASS twill 2/2
Glass fabric 102g/m2 canvas AEROGLASS
Diolen fabric - black 200 g/m2 twill 2/2

the Bill:
The first time is quite an interrogation. este mam core doors on the size of 165x50 ...
it is a nice job and the rubbing resin, it makes me very tired

Is this a PU for the rails? Or epoxy?

Good work.

Downunder - i meant to post this on board builders ages ago but forgot, a while back on one of the threads on board builders i recall you questioning the big companies lay-up qualities and whether they get imperfections and wether they hide them underneath the graphics... well North do! I was repairing a North TT, doing a rail delam and noticed amongst their 'blocky' top graphic were a couple of clear squares in the graphic that allow you to see the wooden core....but what it actually showed you is the tonnes of imperfections in the glass.... uneven weaves and dry spots. Don't know how long the guys had it or how much abuse he gives em but it's in a real state...doesn't look like a very well made board to me at all.

downunder:
It will be epoxy.

sijandy:
I do not know if I understand you well, but what you do not do so alone as you want. It's like when you let build a house from the company and then find out gross deficiencies and he would've stood by too different, and most importantly know where the gaps are

otherwise I did the first layer of epoxy on trial and there have bubbles, so it must be ground and try it again, that's exactly what I was afraid of: (
how much do you curl back boards after removing from the mold?? Thanks for the reply

Raslikk wrote:downunder:
It will be epoxy.

sijandy:
I do not know if I understand you well, but what you do not do so alone as you want. It's like when you let build a house from the company and then find out gross deficiencies and he would've stood by too different, and most importantly know where the gaps are

Hey, yeah i'm not sure you understood me... no worries, i was just referring back to a question from Downunder on a different forum. It's called BoardBuilders i think - google it, some useful info and tips for board making.

how much do you curl back boards after removing from the mold??

...depends on two main things, what material your using for your core and how much glass. I use Palawnia wood core, spring back for me tends to be in the region of 35-50% give or take. I've learnt that rather than try and fight it is too anticipate the spring back and adjust your rocker table accordingly. ie if you want a final rocker of 40mm then set the table to 80mm.

sijandy wrote:Downunder - i meant to post this on board builders ages ago but forgot, a while back on one of the threads on board builders i recall you questioning the big companies lay-up qualities and whether they get imperfections and wether they hide them underneath the graphics... well North do! I was repairing a North TT, doing a rail delam and noticed amongst their 'blocky' top graphic were a couple of clear squares in the graphic that allow you to see the wooden core....but what it actually showed you is the tonnes of imperfections in the glass.... uneven weaves and dry spots. Don't know how long the guys had it or how much abuse he gives em but it's in a real state...doesn't look like a very well made board to me at all.

True. And paying a top $$$ for this boards.

If they all used a clear topsheet, many wouldn't sell...