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I went to a local fabric store in order to get some breather material but was not able to find exactly the same thing as I bought from the online store for resin

My question is then was is the composition of the breather material? Should I find exactly the same thing that I got online or does something fairly similar will do the trick for quite a cheaper price? Any feedback welcome.

Dany

Do you mean the peel ply, or the breather? I don't think the breather is too critical, but I don't use any. If you use vinyl on the board surface, you don't need any breather, but could put perforated tubing or even just coarse rope around the outside of it to give a channel for air to flow around all sides of it.

Peter

Most people don't use breather,
I can get a better Vf using perf ply and breather so use it when I build my personal boards. However more finishing is required to get smooth surface. ultimately it's about 4 x the work but you CAN get a lighter board.

(I really need to start running some infusion trials)

The material is just polyester. Batting will do in a pinch however the "real": breather fabric is a lot smoother leaves less texture on the part requiring less fill and the cost is very close to fabric store polyester batting.

Johnny Rotten wrote: (I really need to start running some infusion trials)

whats the advantage/s of infusion over standard layup?

Breather/batting material is then fairly expensive... Anyhow I was thinking of using some around the edge of the board while vacuum bagging in order to absorb some of the epoxy from the bottom of the board. I am still thinking that a one step process (the bottom and the top of the board at the same time) with vinyl on top and vacuum bagging could give good result as long as the breather can absorb excess epoxy from the bottom of the board (toward the edge). I guess that I will have to give it a try...

Daydan if you are short just grab some paper towel and triple layer it. will do the same thing if you put it ontop of the peel ply. sucks up all the extra resin.

Johnny. infusion is the way to go now a days.. less resin, better finish, and just plain cool to watch is cross over. It does cost alittle more to do with the wicking material but in the end I think you save in epoxy.

do your pull, open your resin line, watch it cross until about 3/4 or alittle more the way and close the resin line , you should have enough to get to the end. low voc resin. RR works great.

I tip. the bigger the part the slower the hardner. the heat gets too hot and starts to set before it crosses over to the other end other wise.

just trying to help
Terrie
www.jellyfishboards.com

"chasing my dream one letter at a time"

tkettlepoint wrote:Daydan if you are short just grab some paper towel and triple layer it. will do the same thing if you put it ontop of the peel ply. sucks up all the extra resin.

Johnny. infusion is the way to go now a days.. less resin, better finish, and just plain cool to watch is cross over. It does cost alittle more to do with the wicking material but in the end I think you save in epoxy.

do your pull, open your resin line, watch it cross until about 3/4 or alittle more the way and close the resin line , you should have enough to get to the end. low voc resin. RR works great.

I tip. the bigger the part the slower the hardner. the heat gets too hot and starts to set before it crosses over to the other end other wise.

just trying to help
Terrie
www.jellyfishboards.com

"chasing my dream one letter at a time"

Hi, do you know of any good educational/instructional videos or websites on resin infusion? It's something i'd like to try but would like to get fully clued up on before attempting. Do you get many issues with air bubbles n dryspots with infusion?

with the right products and low voc resins it is pretty easy to do. there are a few different wick cloths out there , most popular is the green for wicking the resin across the mold or plug. here is one video that show pretty much every step.

if done right with the feed line and the spiral tubing in the right spots should never get dry spots. for air bubbles if you stop the resin feed before the cup is empty and so putting resin in around the 3/4 mark you should be fine also. most carbon car parts are done with infusion. the only thing is some people say it is heavier the prepreg and others say it is the prefect ratio for carbon to resin which should be around the 30-40% mark. Use the slowest hardener you can get will help with air bubble and dry spots.

I pull -27hg on my vacuum pump which make the resin weep fast...

search youtube for resin infusion and there are tons of different ideas and such. some people pull end to end , others pull middle to ends.

terrie
www.jellyfishboards.com
"chasing my dreams one letter at a time"

As I understand resin infusion is better only coz of less contact with a resin (if you evacuate vac air elsewhere).
The rest of the setup is more expensive ie a mesh, proper tubes, proper mixing etc etc.

I recon, if one can't build a board with a reasonable results with no infusion, well than the infusion won't help anyway:)