Ok, thx. Not sure when to do dusting and with what?BWD wrote:Vacuum does not distribute perfectly, neither does the stress in the cloth, because of the outline and rocker curves, cloth properties, and other things.
You may do better rounding over the edges of the beveled parts.
But you can also use 3M No. 77 spray to adhere the cloth to the core before wetting out, whether you do open wet layup, wet layup plus vac, or infusion.
If you tack it down that way, it will stay down. A light dusting of this sticky stuff works wonders.
It's not cheating, promise.
Even pros do it.
Yes, you're both right.plummet wrote:Tapering at 45 deg with a straight angle will leave a stress riser and potentiall point of failure. Taper your shape off so its not so pronounced then you will get a more evenly distributed flex pattern and stronger smoother to ride board.
Thanks mate. Sure, the pleat was applied as per the above photo, under B). All around it.ronnie wrote:Where you have indicated the bridging in your diagram is where you should put a pleat in the vacuum bag. The bag will not stretch to go into recessed corners. You need the pleat to run along the bottom of the chamfer so that there is extra material available for the bag to be pushed into the recess.
[/quote]ronnie wrote: If you are putting the vacuum bag directly onto the perforated film, the two will seal allowing no path for the air to pass through and create the full vacuum. You need to have a layer of material between the two to allow the air to have a pathway to escape.
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