Just finished: Shinai Black Diamond (Vector Net, bamboo,FG)

[downunder]

looks cool,

I want to know more about the bottom surface. Where to you get it and how to you apply it? how much weight does it add?

1 roll (100m) is 20kg. It's 50cm wide. Smaller than that only by ordering from the US or EU from a fellow builders. Got this from Canada.

Hard, hard yakka with a roller and a lot of elbow grease:) I am trying to figure out how else to apply it with a vac. One solution might be a resin infusion to eliminate the trapped air underneath.

Which opens another question I've asked myself zillion times too: How to apply a topsheet with no air trapped under? Or better, how to do it with a vac?

Any takers?

[Tone]

looks cool,

I want to know more about the bottom surface. Where to you get it and how to you apply it? how much weight does it add?

1 roll (100m) is 20kg. It's 50cm wide. Smaller than that only by ordering from the US or EU from a fellow builders. Got this from Canada.

Hard, hard yakka with a roller and a lot of elbow grease:) I am trying to figure out how else to apply it with a vac. One solution might be a resin infusion to eliminate the trapped air underneath.

Which opens another question I've asked myself zillion times too: How to apply a topsheet with no air trapped under? Or better, how to do it with a vac?

Any takers?

Heat?

[sijandy]

I've got one ready for a coat of laquer safternoon which is looking pretty smart, it's a lightwind wakestyle board - ill chuck some pics up over the weekend.

Here it is.

145 x 43
Paulawnia core
5.5cm rocker
Single concave
600g/300g biax top/bottom
Polyurethane rails



This is actually the board that destroyed my rocker table which i ranted about on here a few weeks ago, so considering it had 1800x700mm 3/4in block of MDF fused to the bottom it hasn't come out too shabby. The yellow blobs you can see are the last few remaining signs of rocker table and in case you're wondering it lived in the garden pond for a week to be able to get that f****r off!

[BWD]

looks nice
what are the stripes?
polyurethane for more flex? stringers for less? ??

[sijandy]

looks nice
what are the stripes?
polyurethane for more flex? stringers for less? ??

Cheers.

Nope, polyurethane cos it's better than using epoxy. CF stringers to stiffen it up and the stripes are auto paint, skulls i done with cheapo spray paints, then just laquered the whole thing. Tried without priming to save weight, can't see from the pics that well but the finish in places isn't too good but nothing i don't know how to rectify for the next one.

[downunder]

..and in case you're wondering it lived in the garden pond for a week to be able to get that nice person off!

what? why ? So after a week is the board still same rocker and concave?

I don't remember reading about it...Nice board tho. How muchos air bubbles in the rails? Perforated core for infusion, is it?

PS
600/300 on top/bottom? Would be better 300/600 for a wake board? How stiff is it?

[downunder]

Which opens another question I've asked myself zillion times too: How to apply a topsheet with no air trapped under? Or better, how to do it with a vac?

Any takers?

Heat?

Explain?

[BWD]

by stripes I meant what you call stringer, not the paint job.
sorry I was a bit unclear.
but if they are just carbon tows on the bottom surface of board, it would be more typical to call them springers, than stringers.
Looks like a good way to do it.
I just put some bigger carbon strips on the bottom of a board that needed it (call them what you want), big improvement in pop/stiffness.
Nice work with the spray paint.

@downunder:
I suspect he meant "heat" as in heat the resin used for laminating topsheet, to get lower viscosity, so bubbles escape and are easy to move around/out of laminate.... ?

[downunder]

@downunder:
I suspect he meant "heat" as in heat the resin used for laminating topsheet, to get lower viscosity, so bubbles escape and are easy to move around/out of laminate.... ?

The WS is quite low viscosity 1:3 by volume. 1:3.5 by weight.

Heating 100-120g of epoxy doesn't mean much in practice me thinks based on my experience with a topsheets and vac. It might work better with a press, centrally applying pressure, slowly to the rails, heating under bladder. Again in theory and difficult in practise.

The problem with a topsheet, unlike a FG, is the bubbles can't escape when rolling it. And a concave does not make it easier. A slight topsheet lifting up will make a huge bubble and leaving it for latter will make the things worse.

More and more I think a resin infusion is a go. But, how on earth can one do it under the topsheet is unknown to me.
OR, as discussed elsewhere, a tiny holes in a core to act as a perforated film and vac it as usual? But than, would more epoxy than needed leak out under the topsheet (and ss inserts) to the above layers? Duno.

[downunder]

Ok,

One suggestion from a local shaper is to wait for epoxy to tack a little, maybe even applying a bit of epoxy on tacked surface and than doing a hand layup with no vac or anything.

Remember, this is like a tinted car windows. One air pocket, and no way to fix it other than to take off and start again. And this will lift up a FG at the same time. Than you're stuffed...

Would anyone agree with this? Is a tacked epoxy a way to go? Do we need to wet out both, a topsheet and core?