New board

[TomW]

Sparx,

I've made some blanks out of builders eps, cut them with a hotwire. And made that red one with xps.
The Akushaper and cnc route saves a lot of time and improves accuracy and repeatability.
Shaping in CAD takes some time and training to be able to see or visualize what you're going to get irl. If you're in the UK, you have close access to machines and you can shape them one at a time...I had to do 3 at once to make shipping affordable.

[Laughingman]

Sparx,

I've made some blanks out of builders eps, cut them with a hotwire. And made that red one with xps.
The Akushaper and cnc route saves a lot of time and improves accuracy and repeatability.
Shaping in CAD takes some time and training to be able to see or visualize what you're going to get irl. If you're in the UK, you have close access to machines and you can shape them one at a time...I had to do 3 at once to make shipping affordable.

Hey Tom
Nice board
I work in AutoCad daily in 3D environment modeling solids and also run our CNC in the shop from time to time when they are too busy.
1. are there some basic rules to follow when shaping. I can start from scratch buy there must be some hydro dynamics to consider can you point me in a good spot for light reading?
2. our CNC is what they call 2.5d it cuts a shape and that shape can be machined on the z axis.
I've cut 2 piece hydrofoil molds etc... is that what they used to cut your boards or did they use a 5 axis?
Thanks
Pete

[Sparx45]

Ahh is true....I think i'm a little lazy as I stare at a PC all day but you're are right I should take some time to figure out the CAD side of things. Generally though, I loft plan shapes and rocker templates and have used XPS frequently with some great results...the XPS I use shapes a lot like wood which I quite like !!....

The CNC guy here is very good and has a machine that can cut a blank up to 18 feet so SUP's and all sorts are do-able. His cutting charge (incl.finished blank) also make it all pretty affordable so when I get my ahead around Shape i'll start having some proto's done.

Sparx.
Let us know how your 4'11" goes......very interested in a ride report on that one bud !!

[TomW]

Hej Pete,

It's worth the effort to learn Akushaper or Shape 3D. It allows easier control of board shapes than traditional CAD.
But your cnc machine may not be compatible. Akushaper and Shape 3D are set up to create files for board shaping machines. Google Akushaper and you'll see one. It's 3 axis, but uses unique cutting disk and longitudinal feed. This limits details that can be milled.

Board design is pretty complicated subject. You can learn about it by reading on swaylocks and reading Daniel Thomson's work. I'm sure there are many primers on the Internet. I've read a lot, looked at a lot of boards in shops. Www.surfscience.com has a good primer

Outlines are a pretty straightforward subject. Rockers are complicated and there are many interdependent variables I don't have experience with, but read a lot about it.
Rail shape is also complex, but there's a pretty standard approach on shortboards that works well.

Fin placement and types is super complex, you'll have to read about it.

I recommend you copy a design that you feel excited about or you think might work for you. You can make some tweeks to that design but keep close to it. This way you don't have to have the deep knowledge.

The Tomo Evo shape is working great for me. Admunsen John-o is similar. I made mine much much thinner, it's down to 15mm in certain sections. Concave deck and thinner rails too. My hypothesis is its better in messy chop and wind waves I ride with powered kite in onshore conditions . Not really " riding" waves here.

Or, pick an outline for your purpose. Keep tail rocker about 1 1/4 inch, nose rocker 3", rocker in smooth curve, avoid 3 step rocker. All your curves should be smooth and curve analysis " combs" super smooth.

Greenlight surf supply has a good intro to board building.

It's good to read up and get a solid theoretical ground to stand on, and then get out of the library and start shaping.

[Kaito]

Hello TomW,
Great looking boards!

I'm in the process of making a board based on Tomo's Vader with EPS & am looking for a good layup that can hold up to kiting and strapless airs.

Could you please tell me more about the top veneer you used on your first Evo build?
How did you get it to adhear to the deck? Vacbag? How thick is the veneer and where it was placed in the layup. Do you think it has helped prevent heel dents and overall durability?

Once I progress more on my Vader build, I'll be sure to post a few pics here & share.
So far, I've got the template cut out of the blank, and will start planing it very soon.
Demensions are 5'x18" and I'm planning on going down to 2" thickness.

Thanks in advance for any experience/knowledge you can share.
K.

[TomW]

Hi Kaito,

For first board I used xps foam that is blue colored and used for ground insulation. I'm not sure of its density but it's some where between 1-2 lb per square foot. Softer than surfboard blank.
Veneer is 1,2mm Abachi, it is light wood. It's twice as dense as balsa, but not as hard as bamboo. I have a Swedish source and a stack of it from earlier project. Trying to find good source of bamboo.

First I laminate bottom and wrap laminate around rails to taped off deck. Tape is at where edge of wood will be. I used 2x 15mm carbon tow tape and 2x 200g twill eglass. Do a cut lapp and grind edge of glass to deck concave. used pigmented epoxy for Red board.

I bond veneer to deck by putting down layer of 6oz glass with epoxy onto deck concave, slightly smaller so it doesn't stick out anywhere. and then v-Bag the " cut to shape " veneer to the deck. There is also 2 - 15mm wide carbon tow tapes under the glass I put down at same time.

Then I sand down the wood edge feathering the edge to make smooth transition to rails. Then I tape rail on bottom and put 2 x 200g on deck and wrapping rails. I then grind off to tape. I use clear epoxy on deck.

This gives me a laminate like this from deck:
200g glass
200g glass
1,2 mm wood
165g glass( had a scrap piece)
2x 15mm CF tow
Foam
2x 15mm CF tow
200g glass
200g glass

[Laughingman]

Thanks TomW

That is great info... looked up some videos to see Akushaper in action... not like our CNC that is for sure! Might be able to come up with an attachment though but the clearance from the table to the gantry is the limiting factor.

Pete

[tkettlepoint]

Pete we can do it with yours and my cnc no problem.. just drawing the board is the trick. . I am going to try to cut one or two foil boards over Christmas holidays if I have time..

terrie
www.jellyfishboards.com

[Kaito]

Hi Kaito,

For first board I used xps foam that is blue colored and used for ground insulation. I'm not sure of its density but it's some where between 1-2 lb per square foot. Softer than surfboard blank.
Veneer is 1,2mm Abachi, it is light wood. It's twice as dense as balsa, but not as hard as bamboo. I have a Swedish source and a stack of it from earlier project. Trying to find good source of bamboo.

First I laminate bottom and wrap laminate around rails to taped off deck. Tape is at where edge of wood will be. I used 2x 15mm carbon tow tape and 2x 200g twill eglass. Do a cut lapp and grind edge of glass to deck concave. used pigmented epoxy for Red board.

I bond veneer to deck by putting down layer of 6oz glass with epoxy onto deck concave, slightly smaller so it doesn't stick out anywhere. and then v-Bag the " cut to shape " veneer to the deck. There is also 2 - 15mm wide carbon tow tapes under the glass I put down at same time.

Then I sand down the wood edge feathering the edge to make smooth transition to rails. Then I tape rail on bottom and put 2 x 200g on deck and wrapping rails. I then grind off to tape. I use clear epoxy on deck.

This gives me a laminate like this from deck:
200g glass
200g glass
1,2 mm wood
165g glass( had a scrap piece)
2x 15mm CF tow
Foam
2x 15mm CF tow
200g glass
200g glass

Wow! Thanks so much for the precise and informative reply TomW

After your experience with the wood veneer and riding the proto, are you planning on using wood again on your new board?

I will be shaping and doing the layup on my current build soon but am still undecided if I will use a wood veneer or add a couple more layers of epoxy/glass for durability. Especially at the front foot/heel area, where surfboards are more prone to cracks.

Thank you again & hope you post up a few pics of your progress and final build
K.

[foilholio]

http://www.boardcad.com