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Re: Stance ?

Posted: Wed Nov 01, 2017 5:06 am
by BigZ
jonysan wrote:
Mon Oct 30, 2017 7:35 pm
... but most average surfers tend to keep to their preferred stance, and ride either frontside or backside depending on whether the wave is breaking left or right, we can mix it up
...
Most average surfers???

Besides few "unicorns" like Jeff Clark or Todd Smith can you name many ambidextrous surfers. In your opinion, are Kelly Slater, Rob Machado or Jordy Smith "average surfers" ?

Re: Stance ?

Posted: Wed Nov 01, 2017 9:39 am
by Jzh_perth
I’m Same as you Pelle ... I’m a goofy and luckily where I love all the decent breaks are Lefts. I never go right unless I really have no choice.

Re: Stance ?

Posted: Wed Nov 01, 2017 2:37 pm
by jonysan
Big Z..... Kelly Slater, etc, can never be classed as average surfers, surely that is obvious ? the pros make up a miniscule percentage of the thousands of surfers.
At my local beach if 50 surfers are out, there are a few who are "good", the rest are "average" surfers who are out to enjoy themselves, not compete, just surfing for fun, and exercise, these average ability surfers, which most of us are, tend to ride in their preferred stance. Some of the longboard riders do tend to mix it up a bit, but that is part of longboard riding.

Re: Stance ?

Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2017 1:48 pm
by vela99
Hi Pellesurf,

I am goofy as you but many of the wavespots I normally go to are regular if you surf front side. Coming from windsurfing, as I prefer front side wave riding over back side riding by far, I learned to surf regular. With practuce you can become almost as good. Go for it and practice.

In my case I do need a few more waves on regular to dial in on a given day. It takes little time on goofy. But after the initial phase it goes all right.

Your video seems to be in conditions with on shore wind from the right or maybe sideshore? If so try front side regular next time. Going front side goofy on a day like this does not seem natural to me at all.

Re: Stance ?

Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2017 5:16 pm
by scottnorby
Pellesurf wrote:
Mon Oct 30, 2017 8:59 pm
Here is a short clip when I trying to have some fun in the waves at my homespot.
It feels like I'm not reaching the right height against the wind to reach the wave really, with this stance and wind / wave direction
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4hLgfa7VDIo

Cool video---crazy looking gopro mount.

Just my opinion.
For true surf style it looks like you need a bit bigger board.
Looks like your board is carrying all your weight on your back foot ....and looks like it could sink and stall on slow turns.
Bigger board---stand up more straight
The right board will have a bit more volume and continue to glide a bit when the wind stalls or you make a big turn.
A bigger board will also help you to use the apparent wind in the kite more effectively.
Use the fins to go up wind not just the rail.

Fins on surfboards are amazing. And so much larger than on twin tips.
Riders who go from twin tip to surfboard often just ride heavy on the tail and try to lay back and use the rail of the board---like a twin tip.

But a surfboard can go straight---get to planing quickly --- and because of this it can turn upwind on it's fins.
99% of all surfboards side fins are 'toed in'.
This angle on the fin is constantly trying to correct itself....let those fins do the work to turn you upwind.

If you cant paddle surf the board into a wave and surf it without a kite, then its really not surfing.... too much plowing and dragging and not enough planing and gliding.

Next video try to stand up and put your weight on your front foot more.
You should feel the board accelerate a bit when you shift your weight on your forward foot.
If not---time for a new board with more volume.

.

Re: Stance ?

Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2017 10:15 am
by Pellesurf
scottnorby wrote:
Sat Nov 04, 2017 5:16 pm
Pellesurf wrote:
Mon Oct 30, 2017 8:59 pm
Here is a short clip when I trying to have some fun in the waves at my homespot.
It feels like I'm not reaching the right height against the wind to reach the wave really, with this stance and wind / wave direction
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4hLgfa7VDIo

Cool video---crazy looking gopro mount.

Just my opinion.
For true surf style it looks like you need a bit bigger board.
Looks like your board is carrying all your weight on your back foot ....and looks like it could sink and stall on slow turns.
Bigger board---stand up more straight
The right board will have a bit more volume and continue to glide a bit when the wind stalls or you make a big turn.
A bigger board will also help you to use the apparent wind in the kite more effectively.
Use the fins to go up wind not just the rail.

Fins on surfboards are amazing. And so much larger than on twin tips.
Riders who go from twin tip to surfboard often just ride heavy on the tail and try to lay back and use the rail of the board---like a twin tip.

But a surfboard can go straight---get to planing quickly --- and because of this it can turn upwind on it's fins.
99% of all surfboards side fins are 'toed in'.
This angle on the fin is constantly trying to correct itself....let those fins do the work to turn you upwind.

If you cant paddle surf the board into a wave and surf it without a kite, then its really not surfing.... too much plowing and dragging and not enough planing and gliding.

Next video try to stand up and put your weight on your front foot more.
You should feel the board accelerate a bit when you shift your weight on your forward foot.
If not---time for a new board with more volume.

.
I do not have much experience with other wave boards, have just used my Naish skater 5`9. But if I read reviews on Naish Skater 5`9, it is highly appreciated for its features and also for the fins. I think there is no problem with the board or its volume for me as a rider, 75 kg (165 lb).
I guess you're primarily aiming for riding the heelside upwind in the clip. It was quite windy this day, about 26-32 knots with a Naish Pivot 7. It's almost impossible not to edge the board and hang a lot in the harness when I ride upwind and push the board against waves.
With gopro, you never get the size of waves, and the angle from the gopro mount might give a wrong picture of how I'm on the board, and it's not easy to ride with a moviestudio on my back ;) It's not my best ride but the clip shows the most common circumstances of my homespot.
I still think it's my goofy toeside that is not optimal for the circumstances of wind and wave direction. Hopefully, Naish Slash has a little better pressure in the edge of the window than Naish Pivot, which may have a positive impact.
Thank´s for your feedback anyway.

Re: Stance ?

Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2017 10:24 am
by Pellesurf
vela99 wrote:
Sat Nov 04, 2017 1:48 pm
Hi Pellesurf,

I am goofy as you but many of the wavespots I normally go to are regular if you surf front side. Coming from windsurfing, as I prefer front side wave riding over back side riding by far, I learned to surf regular. With practuce you can become almost as good. Go for it and practice.

In my case I do need a few more waves on regular to dial in on a given day. It takes little time on goofy. But after the initial phase it goes all right.

Your video seems to be in conditions with on shore wind from the right or maybe sideshore? If so try front side regular next time. Going front side goofy on a day like this does not seem natural to me at all.


Yes, it's onshore from the right and my attitude feels wrong. I have tried to ride regular toeside, which feels better, but it's not easy and I have less control, but I guess I'll need to practice more :)

Re: Stance ?

Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2017 10:58 am
by jonysan
do what feels right for YOU on the day,

Occy, goofy surfing left and right, frontside and backside
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0RqoAB0Pk6ke.

Re: Stance ?

Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2017 11:25 am
by longwhitecloud
Yep, it really doesn't matter which way u surf ( I'm goofy). I surfed raglan for years ( lefts) and now snapper ( rights). Love em both, each have their own advantages. Check out videos of keahi de aboitiz to learn from the master.. kiting and surfing... A most awesome backhand.

Re: Stance ?

Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2017 11:46 am
by Pellesurf
jonysan wrote:
Sun Nov 05, 2017 10:58 am
do what feels right for YOU on the day,

Occy, goofy surfing left and right, frontside and backside
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0RqoAB0Pk6ke.
Some people at the forum seem to have the same issue as me, and others do not seem to understand the problem. Perhaps this depends on how the circumstances are where you usually surf. My homespot is located on the west coast of Sweden. The sea between Sweden and Denmark is a tiny sea where the waves are created by the wind, so the wind and the waves have the same direction, which is usually the west direction, rightside.
Riding waves goofy toeside in this direction is probably not optimal and my question is if I will try to practice and change my natural stance (goofy) to ride regular instead. This is nothing I choose, I have to practice quite a lot first, many surfing hours ;)
In this video, they go waveriding without a kite and that must be an difference because they do not need to look at the wind direction, which is necessary on my homespot, waveriding with kite.