Naish SLE 2007 bridle modifications

[poldo]

Hi everyone

I have a Naish X-1 SLE, 6m, is a 2007 model similar to the Boxer SLE (the bridle design is the same and the outline profile too) but lower AR and tamer. I’m 67 Kg , so this kite is my medium-high wind kite (from 20 to 35 knots). It could be rigged with 1:1 or 2:1 bar system, but I don’t like pulley at the bar so I’ve always used it with 1:1 setting. The kite is not bad, it’s very stable even in gusty wind and goes upwind very well. If you leave the bar the kite sits with low pull at the window side with a tip on the water ready to relaunch. It starts early, in 20 knts I’m well powered with a 130-39 TT. In flat water it likes to run, flying very fast, this is unexpected in a school targeted kite but I had my faster rides with this kite in 25 knots.

BUT there’s something that I would like to improve, expecially in the waves (with 25-30 knots usually there are good waves ):
- the bar in 1:1 mode is too soft, I could ride 1-handed but it’s difficult to “feel” the kite. A heavier bar would be better.
- when a gust arrives, it’s difficult to feel it in the bar and the kites flyes too much forward, giving a punch of pull. I would like the kite to “open” to the wind (if I depower). I have a Waroo 06 that is quite good in this.
- now it’s difficult to stall the kite. I would like to “brake” the kite surfing waves or during jumps to feel it more close (if I pull the bar).

I have already a quite long throw bar setting (35-40cm, almost 14-15 inches)

The kite seems to have a good profile, I was wondering if something in the kite behaviour could be improved (for my taste, probably in default settings kite is really ok for school or less experienced kite) making some modifications in the bridle. Naish instruction says to shorten (with pigtail connection) the AC bridle to rig the kite in 1:1 mode. this should make the bar heavier. I did this but didn’t feel so much difference (but distance between two knots is short, 4cm (1,5 inch).

Here linked there’s a photo with all bridle coded, so it’s easy to argue on it. In B there is a pulley.

So my thoughts are:
- could the kite fly well without the DBC bridle? With back and front separated , front lines directly in E and back lines directly connected with the tips (in A) the feeling should be more direct and the bar heavier. But I don’t knot if the lack of support in B could make problems.
- I could shorten AC bridle, in order to have the tip more connected with the back line


So, tell me what do you think and I’m curious if someone could have tried something on an X-1 or a Boxer SLE (that’s pretty similar). Any feedback would be appreciated!

[El Rudo]

Hi Poldo,
I tried some stuff with the 06 Shockwaves, looking for the same. I tried various things:
- shortening of the back line (A), too much of that won't work well, but you cant try to make it shorter than factory preset.
- You can try moving the towpoint backwards when powered, by restricting the travel of the pulley at B, for instance by tying a knot next to the pulley (aft side) I did not try this myself but I ride OR Rises now and the pulley there rides up against a stopper, for a different function though.
- You can try moving the towpoint forward when depowered, so your control lines get more leverage, try shortening line F.

I was even ready to have venturi slots installed but that would be too much trouble for an 06 kite.
So I got the Rises and that keeps me smiling days after each sesh.

[poldo]

Hi El Rudo, thanks fr the suggestion.

It seems few people played with bridle on Naish kites...

I’ve studied some topic about bridle modification, and this is my idea:

- eliminate the CBD bridle
- connect front lines directly to the pulley in E
- connect the back lines in AB with a 2 pulley system like the one of Waroo 07 (1 pulley in B and 1 in C)

This could be a simple modification and should give more bar pressure and better feeling on the bar

What do you think? Anyone exprienced in bridle stuff could help?

[El Rudo]

Hi Poldo, merry xmas dude!
I tried exactly that and I didn't recommend that in my earlier post fo a reason, if you want to go about it like that keep in mind that you also might need to reshuffle the attachment points on the LE.

For me it didn't work, and I didn't feel like adding points to that kite so I restored the thing to factory settings and sold it.

What you are suggesting can work with kites with 5 attachment points, you have 6. It's been done with the Ocean Rodeo Rise 2007, half way though that year OR started selling bridle upgrade kits with direct rear line attachment points. Apparently the kites flew much better.

If you want that much from a kite maybe you could try to sell it and get a new or 2nd hand 2008 kite, bridle configurations have evolved big time for many kites in that year. There a really good deals for 2008 kit right now!

[Ivel]

i have a 9m proto Boxer SLE that i did a LOT of tinkering with.

eliminate the CBD bridle
- connect front lines directly to the pulley in E
- connect the back lines in AB with a 2 pulley system like the one of Waroo 07 (1 pulley in B and 1 in C)

that sounds like it would work,and would be pretty easy to do. i've just shortened the bridle to make it tighter and more responsive. definitely do your experimenting in lighter wind. i almost got killed when my proto started doing loops on the beach due to a jammed pulley.
on my Boxer SLE I ended up building a bridle similar to the Ozone Instincts but with a much more C-ish shape than Bow. it made the kite much more solid not the on/off floppyness of bow kites

- the bar in 1:1 mode is too soft, I could ride 1-handed but it’s difficult to “feel” the kite. A heavier bar would be better.
- when a gust arrives, it’s difficult to feel it in the bar and the kites flyes too much forward, giving a punch of pull. I would like the kite to “open” to the wind (if I depower). I have a Waroo 06 that is quite good in this.
- now it’s difficult to stall the kite. I would like to “brake” the kite surfing waves or during jumps to feel it more close (if I pull the bar).

have you tried just shortening the back lines? to help stall/ brake it?


Props to you though for wanting to experiment, let us know how it goes.

[saschak]

Why not try the following:

- pulley B goes to position D
- remove DE line, not needed anymore
- move original CBD line to BDE, i.e. fix at E and B and run through new pulley at D
- AC should be a single line now, but its too short, make it longer, so it matches again.

this gives you roughly SB 2009 bridle.

test carefully, have no idea how it will fly.

Best regards,
Sascha

[sflinux]

Hi Poldo,
To increase bar pressure, you want move the rear bridle leverage point away from the tip, or move the leading edge shoulder attachment towards the center of the kite. For a mod,the easiest thing to do is to use existing bridle attachment points.
The following will move your rear leverage point away from the tip, giving more bar pressure:
Disconnect the DCB bridle. Build a new rear bridle where the pigtail at C is the same length as before. It helps to build one side at a time, fold the kite so the tips line up and make sure both rear bridles are the same length.
i. A simple setup would be to put a long line running from A to B (i.e. the old DCB bridle line), with a pulley hanging off. This is like the 08 royal era setup.
ii. I encourage you to try your waroo07 bridle idea.
iii. If that doesn't feel good enough, I'd try a 07 royal era setup like here:
http://forum.bestkiteboarding.com/viewtopic.php?t=7919
Also, worth mentioning is if you oversheet a kite; the bar pressure will be heavier and the kite won't overshoot the window.
If you wanted to keep the stock bridle configuration, I'd remove the DCB bridle and fly the kite and keep shortening the AC bridle line until the kite starts to backstall in light winds with the bar pulled all the way in. Then I'd put the DCB bridle back on, and keep shortening that bridle until the bar pressure is to your liking.

[saschak]

hope, one of these shows up...


[[Image:SW2006_7m_Bridle_mod.jpg]]

.... cant try it out myself right now, but this is what I meant. Except for those pigtails no additional parts are required and you can back go to the original config. The front lines attach where my blurry hand is in the picture. It just attached the old "frontline attachment piece" via larks-head to the loop that is on the pulley which was originally mounted on the LE.

Since actual suspension stays the same (so does shape of kite) I dont see why it should not work. It may have too much depower, but you say you are experienced..


Maybe somebody can give it a go, its too cold over here right now.