Which one are people using for 4:1 systems? I had seen others mention CL253, but has anyone tried the CL264?

Also saw this on the website:
http://www.clamcleat.com/uploads/cleat_information_pdfs/Cleats-for-Kitesurfing.pdf

I'm guessing this is pretty old (judging from the board this guy is using). I wonder if that bar cleat might be worth a look for racing if you're trimming the kite with the 4:1 trim strap all of the time other than when tacking, jibing, and prestart?

none of those, you want the aero cleat or micro cleat

CL826

Nice! Thanks

Any pictures of one rigged up?

Do you rig it with the depower strap (above the cleat) and the depowerline (below the cleat) as one continuous line like on the North system?

Tried my bar with a cleat above it to lock it, and 4:1 , tried for 2 months to get used to it, didn't really work that well and just took it off again.
its not much bar pressure for someone to hold with 1 hand anyway.

Yes, I did so on my Naish bar. It is also the recommend way to rig as per the cleat manual.
On my Cabrinha bar, however, it was more practical to rig it through separate attachment points - works great this way too, very smooth and decisive cleating and uncleating.

Thanks for the picture!

What is the smaller blue line attached to the bottom of the shackle on the Cabrinha bar? At first I thought it was the flag-out line (IDS), but looks like your IDS line is red an runs further up the lines.

The Cab stock bar has this plastic part below the spring (recoil), both to avoid the spring from coming down and to serve as an interface between the bar and the spring. The stock trim bungee balls were what held it in place, but since I took them off, I just added that line to hold the part in its place. So it's not supposed to support any load, just the weight of the plastic part (a few grams)
(the image below is of the original stock bar, to show the part I'm referring to)

I was a bit hesitant at first to do this kind of mod by myself, since I really suck at manual works
But even with my simple knots instead of the fancy splicing I've seen around, it's been working very well and seems to be pretty robust (but I do check the knots every time before I ride just in case!) No way I would go back to the original bar with a race board....