DIY question

[kjorn]

How do you attach the foil to a board? I have an old board, I'm thinking of 4 or 6 threaded inserts.

So I mark the positions and drill through the board, then.... ? And what do you do to the base plate on the foil? Just drill holes through it? Or add some inserts there too?

[windfreak74]

the best way ive experienced is to make a template on an mdf board with the holes you want to drill thru.
make the template at least 25mm thick.
lay it on top of the board with a double sided tape to position the template.
the template is necesary to make the holes aligned at 90 degrees to the surface.that way you wont stray away.
make sure the bit is long enough to go thru both ends.
this way you wont have alignement problems.
make sure to make a true template.
have fun!!

[faklord]

It will depend a bit on the construction of your board.
If you are planning to drill thro you will probably need some type of load spreading (might get away without if you have a tough snowboard type construction).
Various options:
1) rout out slots and bond on corecell or similar, Cover with glass or carbon, Drill mounting holes.
2) drill oversize holes and fill with epoxy & filler (eg chopped glass or carbon), cover with glass or carbon, drill mounting holes
3) rout out slots for Fin boxes, Bond in boxes, cover with glass or carbon.

I would go for 3) and set the boxes 90mm apart. This give you adjustment and compatability with most comercial baseplates.

I should read through this topic:
viewtopic.php?f=196&t=2386805&start=70
This covers both 1) & 3)

Good luck
Dave

[kjorn]

Dave,

I like the sound of 3. For the mounting plate, just drill oversize holes through, fill with epoxy, drill hole, counter sink, push a bolt through... is that it? Is the epoxy strong enough for the compression loads?

[faklord]

Assuming your mounting plate is something like carbon covered wood, Yes that's the right idea.
I would use a filler with the epoxy (glass microballoons or chopped mat)

I would also try to make sure there is something to spread the load under the screw heads (ie make sure they are not only bearing on the epoxy filler)
Various options:
1) Penny washers can be coutersunk or use Button head cap screws
2) Flanged button head cap screw (possibly - depends how oversized you drill the holes)
3) Slap another 1-2mm of carbon on (after filling holes).

Bear in mind that hopefully this will out of the water most the time so it doesnt have to be super streamlined.

The main reason for doing this is to stop water seeping into the wood. I don't know whether this works, but another option may be to just squirt in some silicon sealant that soaks into the wood - but this is probably not a good idea if you subsequently plan to paint these areas?

hope this helps

[revhed]

3 ideas
To align your fuse witn your board after you know the front to back postition.
Mark dead center on your board front and back, on the bottom rails.
Measure your side to side and double check your front to back.
Tape a string to the back center mark on the board with it top down on 2 chairs level.
Run the string from the back board center mark up to the rear of the fuse tail center tape again.
align the string with the fuse bottom and tape it at th e front, now attach to the front center board mark.
Do this until it is tight enough and well taped.
Now step back and line up the string with the strut front and back, you will also be able to see if your strut is 90 side to side on your board.
I use a digital level to check the board side to side level and control the vertical of the strut at this point as well.
You should be able to get the string in line vertically with the strut T E and L E, and as said being about 3 meters away, in front of and in back of your set up should allow great fuse alignment with your board.
If you want to go the insert way see this.

jmb board inserts.jpg (82.8 KiB) Viewed 2627 times

If you want to run bolts thru the board all the way try this.
Now that your fuse is perfectly aligned with your board and side to side and front to back is good as well mark your hole locations.
M6 is enough and 4 at the corners
Drill a 8 mm hole with board level and drill level for true straight 90° in all axises.
Find an allen wrench that will just fit into the hole with the short end.
Chuck it up in your drill and open up the hole inbetween the top and bottom of your board.
you should be able to get to about 12mm dia inside hole.
Now fill the holes with finley chopped carbon or F glass, I always use carbon for more strength.
Tape the holes on the top or bottom so when you fill this will be facing down so gravity will help fill.
Use a good resin catalist chopped carbon mix, not to wet but not to dry either, pack it well.
I always add a layer of carbon after this to add strength covering the holes top and bottom of board.
Now you can drill your 6mm holes inside the 8mm board laminate hole but have the added strength of the "plugs" being between the laminates.
I used to counter sink but now just use half domed bolt heads on the top for more surface area and nice for foot placement reference and cut the bolt to fit the always nylock nut on the bottom plate.
Did that make any sense.
Maybe a photo would help?
R H

[kjorn]

I don't think I totally understood....

You drill an 8mm hole through the bottom skin, then using an allen key/wrench create a 12mm wide hole from bottom through the foam to the top skin? Then fill this with expy & carbon to form a plug.

Drill out a 6mm hole. Then what? Just epoxy an insert into the 6mm hole? How do you stop expoy getting inside the insert? I was thinking of filling it with candle wax....

Is the nutlock inside the board?

Thanks for the help!!

[revhed]

You drill an 8mm hole through the bottom skin, then using an allen key/wrench create a 12mm wide hole from bottom through the foam to the top skin? Then fill this with expy & carbon to form a plug.
Drill out a 6mm hole.

Like I wrote in the sentence just under the photo this is for a Thru bolt, hole method, nothing to do with inserts, sorry for confusion.
With this you have the bolt head on the top of the board (counter sunk or domed head) with it passing thru the board and strut plate and being fixed with a m6 nyloc nut.
If wanting inserts only,
Drill the bottom out just big enough to pass washer.
Then coat your m6 strut plate screw with a release, I use grease but you could use something else, pva, candel wax, screw it into insert fully.
Fill your holes, bottom of board up and level with your chopped carbon epoxy mix just enough to embed inserts.
Embed your home made inserts washer down, use a template or measure to match your strut plate holes.
The washer prevents insert pull out and the M6 hex coupler prevents spin.
I then layup a layer of carbon over the all the inserts for added strength.
R H

[kjorn]

Found some more inserts that may be of interest to some of you

http://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/p ... blind.aspx

m6-10mm.jpg (31.23 KiB) Viewed 2302 times

[kjorn]

Interesting video on installing inserts onto a kiteboard