best way to attach a baseplate hydrofoil on regular surfboar

[Flyfish]

Not intending to thread vear. (I'm very interested in this because I'm 1/2 done making my foil and will be mounting it to some type of board).
But question for perhaps Rev head or others:
How do you attach a foil leash? And what type of cord do you suggest? (It's a great point to protect the hard work I put into the foil)
Thanks

[revhed]

How do you attach a foil leash? And what type of cord do you suggest? (It's a great point to protect the hard work I put into the foil)

I personally know of couple of guys who wish they would have done this!
Drill a hole JUST big enough to pass a normal sleeved kite line in the top of the strut as close to the Flair if you have a base plate, or a few cms below the board if using a tuttle, a few cms from the T E.
If you want a smaller diameter hole 300 lb power line can be used.
Rember this is just in case you snap off your strut connection at the board, so it does not need to be super strong, just enough to keep it attached to your board.
Attach the other end to the board bottom if tuttle, or one of your board base plate bolts if you trust that connection.
Use the sleeve to protect the line where it passes the holes.
I know 2 home build guys who have left this on just in case and you will never even feel it when flying.

I just almost lost this after MANY sessions (1.5 years), stress fatigue and not enough carbon lay ups.

It is in the work shop being fixed as I type.
R H

[Mitaka]

I am planning to install inserts in a 2012 5'0 North Nugget in the next days using the same idea as Revhed. You can find more pictures, info and different opinions in the French forum:

http://kitefoil.forumactif.org/t1781-po ... vec-embase

I plan to do some minor changes and I will be glad to hear your comments:

1. I will use brass inserts which I believe are slightly better in combination with stainless steel screws for use in salt water.

2. I plan to use bigger washers and install the inserts first in high density foam pieces and after that put them in the board.

3. I plan to install the inserts from top of the board by making slightly bigger holes (for the high density inserts) and keep the bottom sandwich untouched, making only 6 mm holes for the screws. I plan to continue using the Nugget some times without the foil as a light wind board and keeping the bottom is important for me. Also It is much easier to finish the destroyed top of the board, which will be below the deck pad. Finally the board will look nicer without any change in the bottom graphics (see the picture below).

4. I will make an appropriately shaped spacer between the flat plate and the double concave bottom for better contact area.

5. I plan NOT to do any further board reinforcements since I am only 65 kg and the Nugget has pretty tough construction for my weight. On this picture Maxime Nocher is using the same board without any visible bottom reinforcements.

OT: Here is some useful info which I found for installation of a box into a regular board.

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set ... 783&type=1

http://kitefoil.forumactif.org/t2764-tr ... rth-nugget

[revhed]

[quote="Mitaka"]

"1. I will use brass inserts which I believe are slightly better in combination with stainless steel screws for use in salt water."

All inox, stainless steel is the best way to go if at all possible.
The system jmb shown is that.
If not may I suggest or similar

tefgel.jpg (174.08 KiB) Viewed 1805 times

R H

[Mitaka]

All inox, stainless steel is the best way to go if at all possible.
R H

The idea for "stainless steel - brass" combination came from my shaper who is working mainly with windsurf boards. Usually the inserts in the windsurf fins are made from brass and stainless steel screws are used to fix them to the board.

Fin_insert_detail__64913.1405427009.1280.1280.JPG (62.82 KiB) Viewed 1781 times

"Brass fin insert M6x9mm for Power Box, Tuttle and Trim Box windsurf fins"

Check also this Windsurfing Fin Screw & Nut

l803867.png (77.75 KiB) Viewed 1781 times

"The fin screw and nut is used for attaching standard or euro box fins to the board. Brass nut is 15mm square x 3.5mm thick. Stainless steel fin screw is 20mm long"


There must be some theory behind this widely used combination in windsurfing. Any ideas why?

[zfennell]

[

There must be some theory behind this widely used combination in windsurfing. Any ideas why?

IMO its because:
1- stainless screws are stronger than brass.
2-stainless on stainless tends to gaul ( weld itself together)
3- the insert has enough thread area to be strong enough in brass and resists gauling
4- and cheap to fabricate in brass

so stainless/brass is a good combination for corrosion / strength / availability/ anti-seize and most probably cost

[tkettlepoint]

I would rather have someone stripe out a brass cross dowel then crunch the carbon on a tuttle mount. I went with 1/2" o/d rod with 6mm thread put in it for the top and bottom of my mast. Made all in house.

terrie
www.jellyfishboards.com

[windmaker]

Nice work! Similar process to fitting US fin boxes but cheaper.

Fin boxes do make it easier to fit different foils to the board with different balance points and you can also get plugs for them for when/if you are using the board without the foil.

[tkettlepoint]

I made a adaptor plate from tuttle to plate mount so I can ride my travel board or my foil board.
the plate was a bigger pain in the ass to make then the rest of the foil ( took more time)

but I must add the long board boxes add weight to the board for sure... If you take a normal surfboard and cut the boxes in make sure you cut the foam right out to the top skin or you might crunch it. don't ask how I found out

terrie
www.jellyfishboards.com

[windmaker]

Good point, bottom and top skin must be connected!