Foot hooks question

[neilhapgood]

Using a Moses t40 so have 2 front straps. For those using foot hooks can you get away with just foot hooks on the front and no back strap or do you need front and back foot hooks to push against to water-start?

Thanks!

[RichR2]

Just gone over to using foot hooks and you only need then at the front. It's just a little trickier at first but you very quickly get used to water starting with them. Once you are up and riding they made me much more confident in the knowledge my foot was free. I really rate them.

[neilhapgood]

Hi rich,

Thanks loads for the reply

Just to clarify you have no strap on the back at all?

Thanks!

[RichR2]

No, just two foot hooks on the front of my el stubbo.

[Dwight]

I only ever use a front hook. They should sell them as singles.

[Macisback]

Its a matter of taste I would say!

For water starting you only need one (surprisingly this works in the front or back - a bit easier in the front)

Two hooks in the front give more control at high speed.

Three or two hooks (front + back) will give you the ability to jump.

I use NSI but now switch to Slinghshot (availability in Europe) - except the look they are identical.

[tswierkocki]

I'm riding strapless now but learned to foil with a single front foot hook. To need for a rear foot hook unless you plan to jump.

[lightandfrost]

Alternatives to foot hooks

Light and Frost has been testing alternative solutions to foothooks. Currently if the footstrap is a single inline front strap we prefer the following strap solution.

The normal footstrap plug position is 18 cm from front footstrap plug to rear footstrap plug. We expand that plug distance to 21cm. A thin approx 2 to 3 cm width of rubber is cut 30 or more cm in length. Longer is fine and the 21cm length can also be made longer or not used at all.
The rubber strip can be made from an old bicycle inner-tube. Alternatively a flip-flop strap works fine. Holes are made at both ends of the rubber strip using a soldering iron or heated metal like a nail or screwdriver.

Footstraps usually are composed of a footstrap cover and two velcro straps which interlock .

Velcro is composed of tiny loop strips and tiny hook strips

The existing footstrap cover is opened and the internal two adjustment straps are stacked so all the tiny loop strips only contact tiny loops and the tiny flexible hook strips only contacts tiny hooks. If there is a velcro attachment strip which connects to the inside of the strap cover then place tape over the strips so the velcro hook-loop sides cannot contact each other.

Place the rubber strip at the bottom then the velcro cloth strips above this and wrap all in the cover. The attachment bolts go through the velcro strap holes then thru the rubber strap then into the board. Tension of the rubber strip can be adjusted by increasing the length between the holes on the rubber strap. The footstrap can then expand and contract as required. The foot is always held gently against the board surface so you do not have to make your footstrap large. The forward foot can float slightly forward and aft. If the foot is twisted or placed under extreme tension the footstrap stretches or snaps thus reducing the chance of foot damage. If the footstrap cover is old or loosing its shape you can use tie wraps to restore the tube form so as to allow the strap to expand and contract.

Light and Frost

[revhed]

Light and Frost has been testing alternative solutions to foot hooks.

A picture is worth a thousand words and would be nice here please.
One front half cut horizontal section foot hook mounted a few cms in front of the sweet spot and used only for water starts is only out done in "safeness" by strapless.

R H

[juandesooka]

I have one NSI one on front, one klingon on back. It's easy water starting with both. With a single front hook, I find it's close to strapless water start ... which is doable, but I find it easier with both.