Ozone speed system adjustment

[kitexpert]

Pulley line lengths are not at all critical in length, as far as they are long enough to bar sheeting range.

Of course then A line of the mixer and brake extension must be of equivalent length to get everything even (or some appropriate lenght).

[kitexpert]

It is possible to make a double pulley mixer by using only three pieces of line. Lighter, easier and faster to do, also unnecessary loops and connections are avoided.

Dyneema is so cheap and mixer is so simple it is no drawback to replace it all after pulley lines are worn out - which takes quite a long time any way.

One pulley mixer needs only two lines.

I don't see what is "pro" and "tune" in Ozone's mixer- it just looks an ordinary pulley system. Not very optimized one.

[alfigo]

I used the system used by Elf on my Chrono V2 13m using some of the original lines, since it allows to trim the mixer and the lines on the pulleys have much more travel so that I can use the kite with bars with greater depower. I have not yet been able to prove how it works. If anyone is interested I have the exact measurements of the lines.

[kitexpert]

it allows to trim the mixer and the lines on the pulleys have much more travel so that I can use the kite with bars with greater depower.

Fortunately modern kites are not as big they used to be and biggest ones are high AR kites. It means chord length is moderate, which means required depower range is accessible with normal bar movement.

For C line row 1m pulley line is usually if not always enough. It allows almost 50cm movement at C line row, which is located at ca. 2/3 of the chord. Then 1:1 brakes (=bar movement) would be 75cm, which is more than(any?) kite can tolerate without backstalling.

Like I wrote earlier line lengths of speed systems are not at all critical, as far as they are reasonable. In principle mixer length should be in proportion to chord length, but because it doesn't matter that much same mixers are used in different sized kites.

[Mossy 757]

I used the system used by Elf on my Chrono V2 13m using some of the original lines, since it allows to trim the mixer and the lines on the pulleys have much more travel so that I can use the kite with bars with greater depower. I have not yet been able to prove how it works. If anyone is interested I have the exact measurements of the lines.

Don't you find that undoing those stopper knots is nearly impossible when you're tuning the kite? I have an Elf as well and need to keep a marlin spike in my gear bag when I'm messing with the speed system because undoing/retightening the knots within .5 cm tolerances of where you want it is really tricky.

[mgs]

I used the system used by Elf on my Chrono V2 13m using some of the original lines, since it allows to trim the mixer and the lines on the pulleys have much more travel so that I can use the kite with bars with greater depower. I have not yet been able to prove how it works. If anyone is interested I have the exact measurements of the lines.


That looks to be a neat system. The brake line (Ozone KR1) “Z” (yellow) looks to join the PB1 pulley line at the “pigtail” as opposed to connecting to the knot on PB1 pulley line.
Does that mean there is no need to adjust “Z” once you have lined up speed system/bridle connections.
From left to right A,B,C & KR1/Z (yellow line)

[alfigo]

I used the system used by Elf on my Chrono V2 13m using some of the original lines, since it allows to trim the mixer and the lines on the pulleys have much more travel so that I can use the kite with bars with greater depower. I have not yet been able to prove how it works. If anyone is interested I have the exact measurements of the lines.

Don't you find that undoing those stopper knots is nearly impossible when you're tuning the kite? I have an Elf as well and need to keep a marlin spike in my gear bag when I'm messing with the speed system because undoing/retightening the knots within .5 cm tolerances of where you want it is really tricky.

I use 3mm Dyneema lines and recently I have released the knots to adjust the Speed System without major problem.

[alfigo]

I used the system used by Elf on my Chrono V2 13m using some of the original lines, since it allows to trim the mixer and the lines on the pulleys have much more travel so that I can use the kite with bars with greater depower. I have not yet been able to prove how it works. If anyone is interested I have the exact measurements of the lines.


That looks to be a neat system. The brake line (Ozone KR1) “Z” (yellow) looks to join the PB1 pulley line at the “pigtail” as opposed to connecting to the knot on PB1 pulley line.
Does that mean there is no need to adjust “Z” once you have lined up speed system/bridle connections.
From left to right A,B,C & KR1/Z (yellow line)

When testing the kite with this system, I noticed that the trailing edge was slightly folded which caused the kite to collapse. I had to move the Z line up 10 cm (making a new knot) to get the kite to fly correctly.

[mgs]

Hello alfigo and thanks for the reply.
I made a jig for the standard speed system to aid my understanding of how it works as well being able to make replacement pulley lines (PB1& PB2) or any part of the speed system for that matter.
My version differs slightly with PB1 pulley line has 2 pigtails, one to adjust “B” with the other to adjust “C”. Both “B” & “C” are with reference to “A”.
I’m planning to setup my 9m with this system soon.

[mgs]

Have made a start in adapting the speed system on one of my Chrono V1’s as per the image, it certainly works in aligning A,B,C connection points when PB1/PB2 pulley lines have shrunk.
The pulley line on the left is Amsteel with pulley line B being Liros DSL 600 (Sleeved Dyneema)
I’m just thinking if Pulley line PB2 needs to be a tad longer with a shorter blue pigtail as I’m not sure if the knot will hit the pulley, if indeed it would travel that far.