If you use a foil kite regularly, it is best to have one bar just for that one kite to be left connected. You will save a huge amount of hassle. The speed and hassle free setup and pack down is actually one of the biggest enjoyments of foil kites.edt wrote:I am constantly moving my bars (have 4 different control bars with different line lines) around so I get tangles constantly
Good advice. As well the thin pigtails Pansh uses now ,like the Flysurfer ones too, are not designed to take the bar off and on. The only negative to thick pigtails with their bigger knots is they do tangle much more easy.edt wrote: Also if you are like me and constantly switching bars, it helps if you put kook proof pigtails on your kite, use whatever system you like that helps prevent confusion.
On the ground they can give that impression but in the air they are just front and rear. If you are trying to sort out the mess on the ground I hold the front pigtail up in the air and check nothing cross's over it and the A bridle, it should run free to the LE of the kite. You then do the same looking at B then C then Z, usually while still holding the front pigtail. You can then place the front pigtail to the center and the rear to the outside, only to keep them in order for when you sort your lines out. You can actually do it in reverse but that may confuse y'all.edt wrote: For my aurora, the rear line pigtail is below and closer to the center while the center pigtail is on top and closer to the tip of the kite.
It happens. It may surprise you but any tangle can still be resolved with the bar connected and easier once you know how, well that is if you have a low V on your front lines. You can pass the bar through the lines and lines around the bar. By leaving the bar connected you will avoid some truly horrible mess with bridles passing through bridles. Having said that they can still tangle and it is a bit of an art to get things undone quickly. Think "lightly tossing salad or pasta" you sort of tease at tangle messes and gentle pull. Once you pull tight hard knots form and you need to go in like a surgeon dissecting the mess. Then I often follow the lines into the mess and pull/untangle them out. Leaving the lines connected gives you a way to follow out of the knotted mess. If you disconnect them you will make more tangles as you undo it all. Other tricks include following your hand along the kite to pull bridles that are wrap around the kite, and wrap the bar up to pass the bar through crossed bridles at the kite, that is usually a setting up problem when the bar is still wrapped(if you leave it connected). Having said all that I hardly use any of it any more as good flying and hard set setup and pack up techniques avoid them all. Occasionally I still do though and I have to search my memory a bit to remember. But when I was a beginner with foils I did it a lot, even disconnecting my lines If you have to you have to.Jamie-NYC wrote:I disconnected lines because I made a mistake, tried to launch in a difficult spot first time (January), then had issues folding kite to put away, etc., had a disastrous mess. The upside of that mistake is that I am learning (with no one to teach me but this forum, thanks).
Hmm on my A15 the Front pigtail is a thicker grey line and the Rear is slightly thinner red. They are both full length splices on the pigtails, so are twice as thick as the line used. They are also made from the same front and rear lines I bought for my A15 from Pansh. It sounds like with what you said in your opening post you were connecting the lines in reverse? May be the pigtails are on the wrong ends? The thicker(grey) one should definitely be on the front connected to A with 2 pulley lines(at one ends) connected to it.Jamie-NYC wrote:The other odd thing about the color coding is that the brake lines are heavier weight than the "front" lines, also opposite of LEI.
Lay the kite out flat down wind with sand on the trailing edge. Hold the front pigtail up so it has slight tension. You should be able to see how the bridles flow freely to the kite. If they don't you have a problem. REALLY REALLY best you don't launch with a problem, you will just get headaches.Jamie-NYC wrote:It's very hard to really see what's going on with all of th lines while the kite is lying flat on the ground - eager to get it up in the air and really study it
NP. If it does slip the ring where you connect the leash should stop it at the chicken loop and just give you some steering issues till you land. To make the ring's hole tighter you can wrap some line through and around the ring and tie it off. Doing this many times you can make bigger rings work as well. But I only think you have a very low chance of it slipping through, the thick safety line connected to the front line is quite fat at the join and should not go through the ring. So I wouldn't worry.Jamie-NYC wrote:Also note: foilholio, your suggestion about FLS not in my 4-line conversion seems a good idea - no not, just lines looped together. Goes through the cleat on the chicken loop more smoothly, hope will not pull through the small ring under load. Will eventually change the chicken loop - and possibly convert to pulley bar (I actually kind of like pulley bars).
I agree it's better to see it that way. But rear lines lead to the outside lines at the bar. Good to see both sides of the story. My 2 cents.foilholio wrote:Windrider you are just confusing him foils don't have outside lines only front and rear...
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