WH Lithuania wrote: Interesting - looks like Z connection line doesn't have any adjustment knots. It only has about 30cm tail. Where should I put knot? At the end of line?
There are few knots in the center of picture. What can I achieve by adjusting it?
If you want to loosen Z, I would try 1cm increments. Mark the line 1cm further down the tail from the existing knot with a marker, tie a knot right above that mark and then adjust so that the mark is barely showing below the knot. Leave the old knot in place so you can go back if you don't like it. The used Joker 5 I bought had like 7 knots in the Z pigtail when I got it, there's no harm in having lots of settings to play around with to get the kite the way you like it.
The adjustable pigtail in the center of the picture serves to lengthen or shorten your pulley line geometry. Shorter pulley lines = less cambered airfoil, therefore more stability but less "grunt." Longer pulley lines = more cambered airfoil, less stability (more tip collapse), and more grunt.
Since pulley lines normally shrink over time, these kites are designed to become more stable but less powerful as they age. The pigtail on Elf kites allows you to adjust for this over time. I'd measure these lines now so you know what the stock length is; if the kite starts performing poorly as it ages, you can either go to a longer knot on the pigtail or replace the line to get back to factory spec.
The Elf pigtails serve the same exact function as the sliding stopper knot setup Ozone uses. This video gives a good overview of how to check and adjust your speed system. Just pretend that instead of moving a knot up and down like on Ozone, you're just choosing a different pigtail knot. The advantage of Elf's system is that if you need more pigtail, you can just replace the stock pigtail with some dyneema and make it any length you want; with the Ozone setup, if you move your knot as far as it goes, you need to replace your speed system or add an aftermarket pigtail to get more length. The advantage of Ozone's system is that it involves less line and there's no extra pigtail dangling in the breeze as you ride, so there's fractionally less drag and one less thing that can get snagged or caught on something.
If you go to the tightest settings on everything the kite will pull like hell, go deep downwind very fast, turn quickly, but be more likely to collapse and harder to hold down going upwind because the "torque" of the kite will be pulling you downwind more. One might associate these settings with a "light wind" configuration, although increased likelihood of tip collapse + light wind is a recipe for disaster with my kite skills. You'll get more out of the kite in the light stuff but your piloting (or swimming!) skills will need to be spot on.
If you loosen everything to the longest possible settings, the kite should have light bar pressure and good stability, but slower turning and less peak power. You might want this kind of behavior when riding at the upper limits of the kite's wind range or if you're a lighter rider who needs less peak power during a water start to get up and riding.
My Joker 5 is setup with really loose Z right now and everything else at "standard" factory settings and I love it. It creates way less grunt than my Sonic FR does but once I'm up and riding it creates good smooth linear power, which I find more conducive for kitefoil racing as "grunty" is a negative characteristic during tacks and gybes.
I'm going to test my Joker 7 as it came directly from Elf and see how it compares, but based on my 2 buddies who are also figuring out their 15m J7's, I suspect I'll have to do some loosening to get the bar feel and performance I'm looking for.