I want to start using the 633 wing on the Moses T40 board, however the current mast position doesn't work and I don't really want to shim it.
Apparently you can just redrill a new position, the process goes something like redrill, use an Allen key bit on the drill and wiggle it around inside the new holes to remove some foam then fill with epoxy, redrill and you are done!
Any reason why this wouldn't work?! I will still want to move the mast back to its original position sometimes so concerns are can you get enough foam out to ensure a decent amount of epoxy is sealing it, if so what is the best way of doing this?
Why would you not shim the stabilizer?? It takes literally minutes and it does not mess up your board?
I also own a T40, shimmed the stabilizer about 2mm with pieces of an old credit card and it works like a charm with the 633.
If you still want to do some DIY work, I would rather recommend building in some finnboxes/ rails so you can move the wing. There was a thread where somebody did this and it seems to work.
The truth is Moses made the original 633 for SUP. Then it turned out that it works even better for kitefoiling. But they didn't change the board Set up .
Neilhapgood do it as discribed, make sure to remove all the foam from deck to bottom.
Use 40 min or better 60 min Epoxy mixed with Micro Ballons.Not 20 min. It will melt your foam. Even better to do this step by step. Make a template for drilling.
Hi, I am in exactly the same position. Adding a 633 to the gear bag and use a T40 (that I like a lot). Was thinking about doing a re-drill but winter is coming with time available for a little project, and tracks would be nice.
Anyone know what actually is going on in the Moses boards around the factory drilled holes? Inserts or supporting structure of course but what does it look like and what area do they affect? Thinking about a re-drill and then beefing up the foam as described. Would like to know what the underlying structure looks like and what re-inforcements are in place.
Thinking that I could route out and place in conventionally with epoxy and carbon flock/micro balloons, and then sink four bolts into the bottom of the tracks that thread up through the original mast holes. That would mean I both get an adhesion and also a bolt set holding them in. Must be more than plenty strong, right?
No idea, but I had the same questions towards some boards, weather there is a stringer and where are the reinforcements and therefore: Can I drill and where is it more easy...
So I already checked many boards also just by interest for their inner structure with an IR cam while activating with an irradiance source, just 5 examples showing what can be detected:
(O and there are already some IR cams for sub 500 € and some also installed in handys, most is crap, but finding a stringer should be possible for sure.)
b_IR hand made stringer.jpg (38.09 KiB) Viewed 139 times
c-IR serial without stringer.jpg (30.73 KiB) Viewed 139 times