inquiry about ice kiting equipment

[gurke]

hi

do you have not a problem with overheating edges on black ice ? I heared it now twice that they ruined there skis very fast, because their edges got too hot at the ice and the glue and the running surface were melting.

[Hardwater Kiter]

There is something that occurs when you edge too aggressively. Ski weren't meant to see the action they see on a kite. Often they get more use in one good kite session than they would ever see in a whole season of lift access. They weren't meant for so much abuse.

On many skis, especially on glass ice or other similar firm surface conditions, you can de-laminate the base from the ski if you edge too hard when stopping or changing directions. We used to peal off bases fairly often here until we started feathering our turns and stops.

Essentially we will change direct and ski somewhat backwards, feathering the edge instead of normal perpendicular edging to stop.

Watch my feet...

https://youtu.be/bMmVygMdJ9o

[gurke]

Hi

Cant watch the video. "It's not available "it says

So you mean the edges get too warm when you break and not if you just go fast and straight? Hmmm, hopefully i don't have to race on duch ice in the future.I dont want to ruin my skis, even if i have a few.

[Hardwater Kiter]

Maybe better luck with this one? Low speed footage compared to the first video but shows the stopping technique we use.

https://youtu.be/ntBN-JuwP0U

I guess it depends on the country you're in.

At speed everything gets warm due to the friction. The friction causes the ice/snow to melt and we ride on that very thin layer of water. This is why speed skiers often use warmer waxes than you would see on a slalom skier in the same snow conditions. The warmer waxes, combined with a wider tuning structure on the base material allow for the water to be channeled efficiently and reducing friction.

In extreme conditions like riding glass ice the friction generated heat may soften the epoxies, which are heat sensitive, used to construct the ski. Add the constant vibration and high miles, any potential weakness in the ski can start to show up. Especially if there are spots in the base/edge interface that aren't quite as well bonded as they could be. One little weak spot can allow just a little bit of ice shavings in and begin a base de-lamination. And if it has a chance to melt, diffuse beneath the base and then refreeze the resulting ice expansion under the base will make it even worse.

Generally when the base starts to disengage from the ski you will notice it immediately. It will feel like you are on ball bearings. No edge control at all on the affected ski. Sometimes the base will tear, and as a result of friction and heat generated while riding it will soften enough to deform and it will look like flowing melted plastic.

As I said, feathering your stops will go a long way toward protecting your skis. I have several pairs of skis with a couple 1000 miles each on them before they had any issues with the base. While I know some riders who don't feather and go through several pairs of skis a season.

[gurke]

Dammm i need to come over in a storm

At what period your lakes are normally frozen?

[Hardwater Kiter]

Normally we are on the ice by now. This season winter hasn't shown up yet.

The water is ready. We just need a few days of sustained cold and we will have some riding on the smaller/shallow lakes.

Patience is the word this winter.

[Hugh2]

Some serious skills there, congrats! I stick to a DN iceboat.

[kitepelican]

Let's talk about the Switchblade a little more. If you set it up right, it's a pretty sweet ride.
The big things to pay attention to are keeping the blade sharp and not having too much projection!
Can't stress the projection thing enough, too much and you'll tax your legs. The blade needs to be
flush with the bottom of the board and out from the edge around 1/2 " ( pinky fingers width).

In addition, If keep the nose and tail sections of the board fairly sharp, your turns will much more controlled and buttery.

Lay a chainsaw file in the groove and work it back and forth when sharpening in addition to the sharpener that comes with the product to smooth out any burs you might encounter.

Take some time and learn how to really carve turns in a small area with this setup and you'll find happiness over just going really fast in a straight line.

[Hardwater Kiter]

Good info

[jyetley]

Love my Switchblade Ice Blade. For years I didn't buy one, because I thought it was too expensive. Boy was I wrong. This thing pays dividends all Winter long!

1. The Switchblade allows you to start kiting earlier in the season, before the snow builds up. And it allows you to kite longer into the season, once the snow starts to melt down.

2. The Switchblade turns crappy inconsistent conditions into a joy. You can surf the snow and then edge across the bare patches without any problems. You'll actually enjoy the acceleration! I ride with my Switchblade 80-90% of the season.

3. The Switchblade is a great tool for kite racing, because it allows you to hold your upwind line better and generate more power downwind. Higher and faster that's the name of the game.

4. I love doing downwind speed runs against the gps and the Switchblade allows me to edge harder against the pull of a big kite, generating huge amounts of apparent wind. My max speed on a snowboard is 46mph, but I know others who have gone faster.

5. If you have the right equipment, there's nothing better than finding really good ice. Every year I'll drive right past snow covered lakes to reach the best ice. It's an amazing sensation!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=el1vUof3Dko