Rick1,
Since you're studying the compulsion of wind and wave affliction, here's my case history....
age 13-25, surfing if Hawaii. Oahu South shore, Browns, Cliffs, Alamo, Pt. Panic, Black Pt. East shore Maakapuu, Sandy Beach,
North Shore, Haleiva, Waimea (shore break),and across from the dairy farm where the shrooms grow after the rain , long looooooong gentle walls, Sunset, Pipeline.
Big Island, Hilo, Honoli'i, South Kona, Kalapana black Sands before the erruption.
Age 28-38, flying sailplanes in England. Midlands, numerous 5 hour+ flights chasing cumluonimbus, 5,000 ft agl, 60- 100 kts at cloud base, Scottland, Dee River Valley, , 7 hour flights,10,000 ft mountain wave, ridge, thermal, rotor. Back to Florida, windsurfing, kite surfing. Training for 50s age group kite surfing comps.
Dix