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 Post subject: ply glass rails
PostPosted: Sat Nov 06, 2004 12:36 am 
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Joined: Mon Feb 10, 2003 5:16 am
Posts: 14
Location: taiwan
OK rocket scientists. Can you answer this one:
Am just going to glass the bottom of my ply board.
How much, if any, overlap should there be?

Building a board in a country where I cant speak the language!


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 Post subject: fiber or weave
PostPosted: Mon Nov 08, 2004 12:29 am 
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Joined: Mon Feb 10, 2003 5:16 am
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Location: taiwan
just stuffed my first glass job!!!!
quick question, are you guys using fiber or weave?
saw some weave at the boat yard, looks easier to use?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2004 6:24 pm 
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Quote:

I used EH's method of stitching the peel for the first time last night. I thought it was going to be hard, trying a new method for the first time. Its such a good method, I walked away from that job with a smile - its makes things so muchc easier.


How do you stich the peelply?

in this way?
Image

Image

Image


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 Post subject: ITCHY-SCRATCHY SHOW
PostPosted: Tue Nov 23, 2004 8:35 pm 
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Posts: 7
For me the easist way has been to hand lay-up so I see if there is bubbles etc. I have done other types of lay-ups also,but for such simple work it seems like a lot of extra work.
I like a 16-20 oz. triaxial cloth layed up on a P.V.C. core foam shaped from a paper pattern (half hull)with fins and inserts located on pattern.Then transfered to core, holes for inserts and fins dug out and filled with micro-ballons, planing and sanding(shaping) is done next. the rocker panel is wetted with release and core is placed on rocker panel dry ,I cut the tri-ax to within a 1/4 inch of edge ,then I use a 4-6 oz. cloth and tape with masking tape to the back of core around edges to hold the tri-ax in place and form a smooth finish and cover edges,then saturate cloth with P.V.C. resin using a roller and speader.
On the other side I do the same thing after sanding the excess(fiber-glas and resin) off the areas on the edge and bottom.Then I brush a finish coat(resin) on both sides and sand most of it off to 220 grit .Then locate (from pattern) the fin holes and inserts and clean them out and countersink them ,then I use a polyester Automotive primer (P.P.G.)and sand to 600 grit ,seal and paint.
Since I have been using this system I have not broken any boards and really enjoying the $150 dollar copies and my own designs.Entire process on an easy pattern (non-directional) takes about 6 hours ,but about three days total for drying time ,best temp is about 90 degrees.For sure view fiberglassupply.com in Bingen Wa. Matt knows what all th big boys are doing and can help a lot.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 24, 2004 1:55 pm 
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But with this method the edge of "taped glass" is wetted by resin?
Or it is a little edge of glass dry?


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 Post subject: ITCHY-SCRATCHY SHOW
PostPosted: Thu Nov 25, 2004 4:12 pm 
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When the edges are coated and there is some resin (mostly drips) on the opposite side I carefully sand it off,I want a bit of thickness on the rails and spend a lot of time shaping the rails by sanding the excess. On the over :D lap lay-up for the top of board that's done last and very easy to sand


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 26, 2004 11:56 am 
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Ok, so no problem with atmosferic layup?

And no problem to sand the dry glass, rigth?

Hi and tanks


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