The problem is that the bar (for safety reasons) has to push the gripper up the powerline once the bar has created enough pressure to release the gripper, so it would not re-grip the bar if you just push it away with the bar, you would have to squeeze it by hand and move it away.

I think an effective stopper ball is the first and most important step on the Crossbow bar. We need something that is as easy to use and move as the Slingshot stopper but which punches out like the Cabrinha one (but without wearing out).

My initial thoughts were to have something like a spinlock loose on the depower line, but to somehow make it release by punching through. (Somebody already made a bar with a spinlock attached to it - I can't remember who.) Only half an idea unfortunately.

That was me.
I'v been using my second Proto Bar which I designed for the Spinlock about 4 months ago,
successfully about 50 hrs without any sign of wearing with the stronger C.L. line.
Shite, I just had a 3hrs session and the C.L. line just weared out.

DrLightWind unlocks by rotation

Ps. The Spinlock pic on my first proto concept bar in locked position.
It locks or unlocks easy wherever or whenever you wanted to
just by the twisting action of the bar.
I don't get it why only 3 people made it I'm aware of,
if it works, being safe and the Spinlock as offshelf item!

DrLightWind,

does the bar still work by the safety principle "let go of the bar and the kite depowers/falls out of the sky"?

do you have to activate anything, like twisting or pushing from a locked position to have the safety work?

Yes, absolutely.


The unlocked position is adjusted for natural safe riding. No accidental lock!
Yes, once it's activated to a locked mode it's functioning like the classic Powerlock,
it needs a mild twisting action of the bar to undo it for the safety to work.
That's all!

I'm going back for another session,

DrLightWind

Dr Lightwind,
I have just bought a Spinlock and from studying it, it does unlock with slightly less force than to lock. I think I would prefer to fit it under the bar, because the natural way to twist the bar to release the powerline would be to twist the top of the bar toward you. I am considering mounting it as shown, or using a fairlead cut in half (although I do not think I will find a fairlead big enough). I think this position would reduce the twisting force needed to operate the Spinlock, which seems heavier than I expected. It is the same size as the one you photographed, but with a plastic cleat. I would value your input on this layout.
Ronnie

Ronnie you right it unlocks with less force than to lock,
and correct about the natural way to twist the bar to release.
More Pro riders mentioned to use the Spinlock under the bar the way you're illustrating.
I had couple of rides with the bar upside down Spinlock facing downward.
It was needed some angular adjustment for easy unlocking which is critical and it worked fine.
In fact for setting of my lines and the bar reversed,
downwind of of the kite Spinlock now on top of bar would be better also without getting sand in it.
I found it's a personal preference where you like it.
Myself I like it on the top of the bar in case of emegency,
because at the early testings the Spinlock was needed help with the hand to lock it or unlock it.
I mentioned the angular adjustment is so critical I wanted to see and reach easy from the top.
Once it's set properly it doesn't matter really where it's mounted IMO.
It might also work without the fairled with the Spinlock mounted underneath the bar
and being closer to the rotation center in your case.
Since I used a bicycle stem it needs a small amount of rotation for on or off but needed the fairled.
http://www.gaerlan.com/bikeparts/parts/stem/stems.html

A big advantage of this system that you can still sheet in for more with locked position.
The layout is fine but you just have to try it in realtime.
Somebody already made similar type of mounting closer to the rotation,
but I haven't got any response how it worked out.

Good luck with it,

DrLightWind

I built one of these with the spinlock on a rotating plate. That way i can turn ite with no force needed to bend CL which is under high tension.

Problem i have with it is the spin lock is sticking up and could wack you in the face or teeth and cause seroius facial injury.

I like the underbar approach.

TW

This is an update on fitting a Spinlock.
Stainless steel exhaust clamps: You would need 2 and a stainless steel plate, so I do not recommend them.
I have bought a nylon block, cut from 25mm nylon sheet. It cost £2 and the ss bolts and nuts cost £0.5
I could not get 4mm bolts long enough, so will have to enlarge the holes and countersinks on the spinlock to take the 5mm bolts.
The spinlock is 31mm wide, so if you could get 30mm nylon, that would be better.
I will post an update when it has been built and used, but that will probably be in several weeks time.
This is just my opinion on the best way for me to fit the spinlock.

Correction for the size of the nylon block.

The 63mm dimension should be 67mm, and the 2 cutouts at the top are 21mm on the left and 13mm on the right.