Sorry to take so long getting back to your request....I am back in the game now!mickeyd wrote:Zilla...thanks for the info. Your projects and articles are the best kiteboarding info on the net. I noticed you used the stainless screws. Why not glue? I'll have to look for one of those heavy duty pvc cutters. The one I found at the Depot was junk...M
First, of all, good observation about the stainless screws, glue, and pvc cutters. I always use screws on the projects, at first, and then after about a year or so, when I have stopped making modifications, then, I may choose to glue the newest device together, for looks. The screws actually hold as well as glue, for my purposes, and allow you to change out any parts that may break, or make any modifications. I was amazed, that after 18 months of using the device, that nothing broke. As you can see from the following pictures, in order that my home-made leader line connections can pass through the holes, I had to ream out a lot of the plastic in the "T" s. I thought that the remaining thin 1/2" cpvc plastic would snap, but so far, even with rough use (throwing, dropping, etc), the plastic has held, due to the toughness of cpvc material. You may not be so lucky, so I would recommend using stainless screws (1/2").
I will post a bunch of pictures in the next 3 or 4 posts, showing aspects of the project, and saving me a lot of words. The major advice I can give is to not hurt yourself using the hack saw, drills, rotary rasp, etc....use a vice if you have it...otherwise, use a piece of plywood clamped to a table, and then use a vice grip to slip inside the cpvc and pvc fittings to clamp the fitting to the plywood, to stabilize the fitting while sawing and drilling. IF you try hand holding the fittings....at least, wear a glove. If you are so fortunate, as to have a Dremel tool, then, you can probably find a much better way to do the procedures, than I did. I only used the basic tools for all of my projects....drill, hack saw, hand file, sand paper (the coarsest grit you can find), etc.
Pic 1 shows the newer model, glued..with only a few screws, which are needed for disassembly and repair, even with the glued model.
Pic 2 shows the line slip prevention bar, pulled off the main unit..note the length, and positioning of the 1/2" cpvc stubs, on which the bar rotates. Note that the slotted unions are twisted into the open position, and the bungee retainer is slipped out of its big retention slot.
Pic. 3 shows the device with the lines in the slots, the slotted unions twisted into the closed position, the bungee retainer in its closed position in the big slot, and the lines lying in place.