I also wanted to share some pics of my second handmade board, which is much more use able than my first board I started to make these boards just for fun, inspired from this forum- already have board North Jaimie Pro 131, which is very good in strong winds.

Length: 140,5cm
Width: center- 44cm; tail- 40cm
Concave: 5mm
Rocker: 2cm
Thickness: tail- 5mm, center- 10mm
Weight with bindings, fins and screws- 4,5kg
Flex: soft
Rails: PVC (too soft. next time going to use something stronger)
Fiberglass: 200g/m
Glass fiber laminating method: without wacumbag; first base (2 layers), then top (3 layers- one full, second- till fin holes, third- between bindings)
Fins: TEC 8cm (thinking to change to 4.5cm, when freeriding)
Bindings: ABoards- SFLS Atmoshere


Is it possible to make it lighter from wood core for such size?

I already tried it once, therefore it is already a bit scratched on rocks on the coast. It is great light wind board with very good upwind characteristics. That was my main goal, when I made it!

wow! Nice looking board!

Did you weight it without accesories? It is easyer to compare it.
How did you apply the PVC rails? Is it just bond to the wooden rail and then laminated with fiberglass? (the lighter edge seen on pictures)
What kind of inserts did you use for this thin board?

p.s.: The fins are from TFC (tarifa fin company)

I don't have weighted board without accessories, and I am too lazy to do it now

I bond PVC rails to wood core, and then laminated, but they are not overlaid.

I bought some stainless steel (made in Germany) inserts in local specialized screw shop.

Great looking board!

I'd like to know how you shaped the woodcore.
cheers

//Joel

I was meaning to ask you the same question. Did jou buy this layers already glued by widh, or did you do it completely.

That was interesting process.

First of all I found local woodworker, who gave me phone number of guy, who have wood drying stock. I went to him and he could offer to me from non branchy raw blanks ash tree blank. It was about 110cm long, 20-25cm wide and 3cm thick. My plan was to make 140cmx44cm board.

My father-in-law have self made electrical saw table. I saw this blank in 110cmx2.5cmx1cm big wood pieces. It took about 1-1,5 weeks to glue all pieces together with PVA D3 glue. I had 5 clamps (or vises) to press wood pieces strongly together (do not know proper words in english). Every day I glued 1-3 pieces (17 together). That raw 139.5cmx43cmx1cm piece of wood didn't look for my family like board at all

Then I took hand-plane, speed polisher and hand-sandpaper and gave outline shape... Then I glued 5mm PVC rail with polyester resign.

In next day I shaped and polished base of the board, drilled wholes for binding screws and fins, and laminated it with fiberglass.

Next day I filled drilled wholes with resign, and after couple of hours shaped and laminated top of the board.

I gave concave and rocker during laminating process. Used very similar construction to that one: http://freespace.virgin.net/cav.labs/ I just used bricks to get tips (for rocker) and center (for concave) down. Laminated with fiberglass, waited, till resign gets till gel phase, then covered necessary places with polythene, and put bricks on these peaces to leave over night.

I tried my new board for second time yesterday.

It was 6 hours session (with small breaks) in 8-15m/s wind with my smallest kite- 12m North Rebel '08 My weight is 94kg, and I like to kite very powered up. Mostly I trained for going upwind, because I want to take part in kiteboarding marathon in local competition in end of July ( http://www.kiteparty.lv/en/ ). That is best twin tip upwinder, I have ever tried!

In one of breaks one guy came to me and asked- what do you do, that you go so easy upwind of crowd, and stay there after so often massive jumps?! I answered- that's my new board! No special technical tricks!

I also was very glad about my new ABoards bindings! Very comfy, and I didn't felt any strong hits to my heels after massive jumps. Very important was, that they are not slippery.