Here you can exchange your experience and datas about your home build boards
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Larse
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Postby Larse » Mon Apr 18, 2011 8:41 pm
I'm building a carbon board with wood core, and I'm not sure on how to do the rails. I've seen some movies were they just let the top and buttom layer come together without overlapping and cut them of afterwards. Can I do this without ABS rails? Just using raisin/epoxy to close the edge up like a ABS rails. Will the vacum make the edges sharp?
Or should I fold the carbon on to the other side and make the new layer on the other side overlap? Will this give too round rails? And will this be too difficult raound the tip?
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gbleck
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Postby gbleck » Mon Apr 18, 2011 10:30 pm
Simple solution is poured epoxy rails.
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Larse
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http://www.KiteboardingExercises.com
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http://www.KiteboardingExercises.com
- Style: Wakestyle/freestyle
- Gear: LF Nirvana, Envy, LF DLX and LF LFX
- Brand Affiliation: Liquid Force and http://www.KiteboardingExercises.com
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Postby Larse » Tue Apr 19, 2011 6:48 am
Poured epoxy seems easiest. But how? When I cut out the wood core, I thought of saving the outer wood and then cut of 0,5mm of the wood core all the way around. Then I have the perfect mould with a 0,5mm gap between the outer wood and the wood core. That would work, I think. But how do i keep the epoxy from sticking to the outer wood mould?
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duartemv
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Postby duartemv » Thu Apr 21, 2011 10:54 am
I'm doing something similar. I've cut out the board, and saved the outer wood. After pouring the resin, I'm planning to laminate the board, draw the outline again on top of it and just cut out the excess.
Since I'll have to cut out the excess fiberglass to re-shape the board after lamination, just might as well leave it with outer wood while laminating...
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gbleck
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Postby gbleck » Thu Apr 21, 2011 9:56 pm
Yea I just use the outer outline as the form and then leave it on after poaring the rail. You can cut it off then shape the bull nose into the edge. Simple and cheap. Pluss you can put cool tints into the edge that look so cool. If your hard core abs plastic is great but you have to cut it, sand it then heat it to get it to bond and you also have to either cut it to shape or keep it bent in place. Little more work but great for the "How did that swim bouy get... THUNK." moments that hapen when the wind is doing the victory at sea condition thing. If you have a scale another fun option is two part high density polyurithane plastic. Two part pourable plastic and flexible impact resistant. Just don't mix to large a batch at once and run out of pot time. Also requires good ventilation and a good 3m dual cartridge mask.
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