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2010/2011 Rebel owners - back line settings

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djt
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2010/2011 Rebel owners - back line settings

Postby djt » Thu Sep 22, 2011 3:14 am

Hi,

I'm interested in knowing what Rebel size(s) you fly and what knot you have your back lines attached to on the bar. I'd like to know if it's wind dependent too, for example light wind = outermost knot, etc.

I have a 2011 14m and 11m, and I'm looking for as much tuning advice as I can find.

Thanks!

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Re: 2010/2011 Rebel owners - back line settings

Postby windybrit » Thu Sep 22, 2011 3:29 am

I have those sizes in 2010... there is just one knot ......... I think you need to specifically ask 2011
owners ......

djt
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Re: 2010/2011 Rebel owners - back line settings

Postby djt » Thu Sep 22, 2011 12:41 pm

I'm referring to the knots underneath the floats at the bar end. I looked at the 2010 catalog and it appears the same as 2011, but if that's not the case I'll change the topic.

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Re: 2010/2011 Rebel owners - back line settings

Postby windybrit » Thu Sep 22, 2011 1:47 pm

oops, my mistake, I'll check this evening and post again :)

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Re: 2010/2011 Rebel owners - back line settings

Postby swell » Thu Sep 22, 2011 7:33 pm

Rebel 14 and 9 from 2011, standart factory setting (middle) knot works best.

windybrit
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Re: 2010/2011 Rebel owners - back line settings

Postby windybrit » Fri Sep 23, 2011 2:03 am

FWIW Factory settings for my 2010 14 & 11m Rebels are on the shorter of the two knots.

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Re: 2010/2011 Rebel owners - back line settings

Postby TommyDuotone » Sat Sep 24, 2011 6:58 am

Why not just hook lines to a fixed object(like bumper). If memory serves, I remember just having the 4-lines(not middle) all equal length when fully powered, and the 5th just a tad longer(< 1cm) since the 5th line is loaded above the stopper at the Y split. I always assumed the knots at the bar ends were there to adjust your desired throw without touching the trimline.

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Re: 2010/2011 Rebel owners - back line settings

Postby William Munney » Sat Sep 24, 2011 1:33 pm

iblocalsurfer wrote:Why not just hook lines to a fixed object(like bumper). If memory serves, I remember just having the 4-lines(not middle) all equal length when fully powered, and the 5th just a tad longer(< 1cm) since the 5th line is loaded above the stopper at the Y split. I always assumed the knots at the bar ends were there to adjust your desired throw without touching the trimline.
I must be missing something, I only see one knot on what I believe is a 2010 bar. It goes from the Dyneema lines to the plastic covered line that goes through the rubber and to the bar.

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Re: 2010/2011 Rebel owners - back line settings

Postby Jono 111 » Sat Sep 24, 2011 1:34 pm

Think some of this comes down to personal choice...

On my 2010/11, 7 and 10 I prefer the kites rigged one knot longer (ie the longest setting) on the back lines. The kites fly well on the standard setting, but my personal experience is that the top end (given the kites are very powerful) becomes more manageable and the range improves on the longer setting. Initially I was not impressed with the top end of these kites but rigged like this, I now think its good.

I've had loads of time on the 7 and 10 but the 14 has only been out of the bag briefly a couple of times in crap conditions. But for different reasons, I would always use the longer setting for the 14 - its a big kite that is more prone to sitting further back in the window, putting it on its front lines should help it fly a little further forward. But like I said have not had enough time to ascertain this for sure. All I know was that on my older 14, this setting worked much much better.

I'd be interested to hear from Wanadoo - who has vast amounts of expertise and experience on these kites....

Good luck!

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Re: 2010/2011 Rebel owners - back line settings

Postby Jono 111 » Sat Sep 24, 2011 1:56 pm

Sounds odd William.

My bar is the North Trust - with the 5th running through the iron heart itself (unlike their older bars).

Under each float are a series of 3 knots....same with each of my older North bars.

Not being cheeky, but I'm assuming you have actually slide the float up the plastic coated line?


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