I would like to know the pros and cons of this design strategy.
Basically grooves or chines are part of the base.
As in this design:
http://www.bestkiteboarding.com/2010-Spark
I think the difficulty would be in glassing the base.
How about "This" ; try the Reciprocal of that strategy ?JMF wrote: ...
You would form it in a two shot process. I would vacuum bag core and bottom layup and weight it down my my rocker table to get some sort of rocker set in. Then layup core with bottom layup on rocker table and vacuum my top layer.
& ALSO :BWD wrote:I recommend 4 oz glass.
It helps.
Also, don't make the grooves sharp -glass won't take it unless you are a wizard.
Make it a bit rounded, and sand into a thick hot coat of resin to sharpen the edge as needed.
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Although I have yet to try that when I made my table I made sure I had enough play to do just that, work from top up so to speak in reverse. In theory it most certainly could work you would just need to be sure that your base is squared up and level and that you have your rocker calculations dialed in. One thing you would be sacrificing would be any sort of concave unless you pre-shaped that into the core of course, could be a real test of your shaping abilityBille wrote:How about "This" ; try the Reciprocal of that strategy ?JMF wrote: ...
You would form it in a two shot process. I would vacuum bag core and bottom layup and weight it down my my rocker table to get some sort of rocker set in. Then layup core with bottom layup on rocker table and vacuum my top layer.
Since --flyyboy-- wants the Grooves or chines in the base, then make the
rocker-table convex instead of concave, and lay-up the Top & the core first.
Now Ya got a stabilized core temporarily glued to your table, so shaping the
grooves in the base would easier.
For Bagging the skin, i would go with Lighter weight glass & use More of them
to get the final weight needed ; making the glass job in the now concave Grooves
on the base of the board even easier.
Also -- if your core wants to be tapered and thinner on the tips then calculate
that into the dimensions of the table and place tapered guides on both sides of the
core for final shaping.
How to get the final shape on the rail will Need more coffee ?
Getting a sharp edge where the Grooves meet the base is also a problem
that needs working out. When Ya lay-up the bottom skins ; they will get rounded.
This is a GOOD problem !
Bille
--JMF-- I Kinda see Why/How, you were able to do 42kts VMAX over the water with a kite;JMF wrote: ...
One thing you would be sacrificing would be any sort of concave unless you pre-shaped that into the core of course, could be a real test of your shaping ability
My table is totally flexible from tip to tip and my vacuum comes from four points on the table that assure I have somewhat of an even vacuum around the whole table.
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