plummet wrote:i've heard that vac bagging a top coat with mylar gives a glass like finish you simply peal the mylar off afterward. so its essentially a resin layer.
haven't tried it myself yet tho!.
let me know if it works.
mattma wrote:Brilliant! Thanks for all the great info and the video. Your mate looks very happy with his efforts and rightly so.
Can I just check one thing. When you wet out the scrim/decals/4 oz you don't put that under a vac bag? Just working it by hand an leaving it to cure is fine?
Using fibreglass scrim is a very good idea. I hadn't ever thought about it before. I guess the larger spaces between the fibres means there's very little chance of getting air bubbles locked in there. And, like you say its effectively a thin layer of resin with a glass backing for adhesion.
mattma wrote:Cheers. I love it! More than enough great info to have a good go at it with enough mystery to make it my own when I finally crack it
I'll make sure I post my attempts and thanks again for the greatly appreciated help.
Cheers - Matt
scklandl wrote:Ive been in love with mylar for years, works great on my bottom sheet, and tried for a while with my top sheet in a one shot build but always got air bubbles migrating to the top sheet and causing problems,
have you any problems with air bubbles with the precast top sheet? or is the precast sheet enough to prevent bubble formation or do you make some holes over foot and fin insert packs?
also, has does the pre cured topsheet handle more complex top shapes? my mylar always buckled causing wrinkles but 4 oz glass would have more strength to it... attached a pic, can you take a look XS and think if this is too much shape for 4 oz glass + rice paper to conform well too? Planning on pre curing topsheet to old glass door than attaching to board
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