You have three real choices. A 'standard' dyneema/spectra line. There's nothing standard about the performance of the best brands in this market segment, but they represent the majority of the market. Pick a manufacturer who makes lines for paragliders, not just kites. Their testing is more rigorous. BEST use Teufelberger, the same as North and a few other top brands.
You can pick a none standard heavyweight line, something in the Q-power line up would be my first choice in this segment. I still have a bar rigged with orange Q-line that I carry for nuclear days. It's a great line, not cheap, but worth every penny if buying on the roll.
Lastly there are now couple of high tenacity micro lines, with various reinforcements, kevlar etc, these are thinner and lighter and have less drag. If you want a race line then these are where it's at. They aren't as strong, and they won't last as long but that's the price of performance.
Nico wrote:Qpower is the best I have ever had.
I used to break my lines at least once per year. But since I got q-power my lines have lasted for years. It is true that you can tie your own pigtails into them without weakening them - this can be done only with q-power lines. They are thick - so they add a tiny bit of drag - but otherwise great and totally bomb-proof.
Q power lines are basically already sleeved so they are the only kite line you can tie your line ends in. If I'm not mistaken, they are a linear core with a tight outside braid. The core just wont stretch cause there is no braid to it, and the outer is there mostly for protection from abrasion and so you can tie it on itself and it wont weaken the strength of the core. Same issue as with the SS ring vs Slider debate. When the angle of the bend of a braid is too tight and under a lot of load the line on the inside of the bend degrades fast. Q-power has the braid that is not under as much relative tension compared to the linear core, and it keeps the bend angle of the core from being too tight. Super quick clean and easy line ends.
Cut 4 lines as close to the same length as possible.
Use a stick or something about 6 inches long to measure off the from the end of the line and double it back from that point. Make a figure 8 with the doubled back line trying to pretty closely maximize the size of the loop. Put the knot under good tension to tighten it.
Make an overhand knot in the doubled line of the loop leaving about an inch loop at the end. This is your pull tab to loosen your larks heads. Leave this knot untightened on one end of each line.
Put the fully tightened knot end of each line over a screw driver jammed in the ground and pull em out straight. Reposition that little knot at the ends of the loops until all 4 lines are exactly the same. Tighten em up, Melt/fuse all 8 line ends for a second with a lighter and rig your bar!
The lines will tend to stay pretty wire stiff for a while but will work in and be the easiest lines to walk out from your bar that you have ever owned. NO TANGLES once you break em in. The only spots to examine for wear are the tiny pseudo joint like soft spots that eventually appear just proximal to the figure 8 knots. You might want to clip the lines at those points and re tie your line ends every couple years.
These lines are the most resistant to cuts from ski's or snowboards, and come in bright orange, They are pretty much zero stretch and super strong. You can actually feel the increase in direct feel at the bar. But the biggest bonus by far is that they are perfectly round in cross section so they resonate at a much higher frequency than conventional square lines and cut a narrower path through the air. Racers might pick up on the gained efficiency, I just think its cool cause it makes your kite sound like a tie fighter when you whip it around. Almost as good as putting a baseball card in your spokes.