Fixable raceboard?

[TheJoe]

Why don't you ask a good shaper in your area for an estimate of the repair?

You will probably end up with a better and cheaper repair than if you go, buy the materials and do it yourself, since from your questions I assume you have no idea of what a repair like that involves.

I did go to a couple surf shop shapers and most said it will be hard to fix and expensive a guy estimated around 200 dollars is that reasonable? also not many people here work with epoxy.

This is what I would suggest to do. Any repairs to that board is going to change the way it rides. Well the way it was supposed to ride. The best way to minimize that is to get it professionally done. 200 is cheap imho. Think how much it would cost to buy one of those 1k+ even used would be around 800. Just my thoughts.

[fredmendes]

Yes, 200 dollars is cheap for that big repair. If you have doubts, start looking for the prices of the materials you would need to use, epoxy resin, fiberglass, fin box, etc

The repairs with epoxy are expensive. Just to give you an idea I paid 30€ ($35) to repair a 5 mm ding (you could hardly see) on the tail of my F-One surfboard. They told me it would cost half if it was a normal polyester board.

[kinchencool]

Yes i will go again to a couple surf shop shapers i know the one i went to estimated 200 dollars they also say the would have to take the sandpaper thing in the board like something so you dont slip take it off well not all but like 3 inches around so the put the epoxy resin is that true? would the fix affect alot the performance of the board i mean like to slow or to wild or it throws you im thinking to use it as my backup race board and then i will get an CR69 Aguera board should i take the shot? and could i get my money back of the investment

[foam-n-fibre]

I've been buiklding boards since i was a kid in the mid 80's and hve done EPS/sandwich construction. Epoxy wiill NOT dissolve the foam. The only way it can "melt" foam is if you try to fill a huge void with it and it gets hot as it cures.. A thin layer, as it should be used, will not melt foam. If you put in the fin box and pour in a half cup of epoxy around the edges to fill all the space, you may have heat issues with a fast curing resin.

An epoxy "stringer" will not affect the flex of a stiff raceboard, considering all the other structural material there.

You'll probably need a router to get out the finbox, and I would also take it out before putting it back together.

As for the rods to connect it, unless you get get them perfectly aligned, they may be more trouble than they're worth. The foam is so soft in the middle it will offer little strength. All the strength will come from the skin. If I was doing this I would not use rods, but would have to make sure I have a good way to clamp and align this .

Peter

[kinchencool]

I've been buiklding boards since i was a kid in the mid 80's and hve done EPS/sandwich construction. Epoxy wiill NOT dissolve the foam. The only way it can "melt" foam is if you try to fill a huge void with it and it gets hot as it cures.. A thin layer, as it should be used, will not melt foam. If you put in the fin box and pour in a half cup of epoxy around the edges to fill all the space, you may have heat issues with a fast curing resin.

An epoxy "stringer" will not affect the flex of a stiff raceboard, considering all the other structural material there.

You'll probably need a router to get out the finbox, and I would also take it out before putting it back together.

As for the rods to connect it, unless you get get them perfectly aligned, they may be more trouble than they're worth. The foam is so soft in the middle it will offer little strength. All the strength will come from the skin. If I was doing this I would not use rods, but would have to make sure I have a good way to clamp and align this .

Peter

Yes, i was confused because epoxy doesnt melt it stuff like crazy glue do also does poly melt it?
i wont put rods ill just do epoxy resin so can you wright me the steps please so i dont get so confused so i know and maybe tell my shaper how he can do it i really apriciate your info.
Thanks!!

[foam-n-fibre]

I don't think I can write out every step, you have to see how it looks and maybe adjust the plans a bit. Any shaper should be able to figure it out. In general:
- take out the box
- epoxy halves together
- sand or grind away most of glass on both sides of seam, tapering over 2 or 3 inches
- fibreglass over the seam overlapping both sides well
- install a finbox before any final finishing, and maybe also glass over it
- smooth out, sand, fill and paint.

And yes, polyester would melt the polystyrene core.

Peter

[kinchencool]

I don't think I can write out every step, you have to see how it looks and maybe adjust the plans a bit. Any shaper should be able to figure it out. In general:
- take out the box
- epoxy halves together
- sand or grind away most of glass on both sides of seam, tapering over 2 or 3 inches
- fibreglass over the seam overlapping both sides well
- install a finbox before any final finishing, and maybe also glass over it
- smooth out, sand, fill and paint.

And yes, polyester would melt the polystyrene core.

Peter

Thanks i will take your advice!

[kinchencool]

I don't think I can write out every step, you have to see how it looks and maybe adjust the plans a bit. Any shaper should be able to figure it out. In general:
- take out the box
- epoxy halves together
- sand or grind away most of glass on both sides of seam, tapering over 2 or 3 inches
- fibreglass over the seam overlapping both sides well
- install a finbox before any final finishing, and maybe also glass over it
- smooth out, sand, fill and paint.

And yes, polyester would melt the polystyrene core.

Peter

Also what brand or type of epoxy is the best or the one you recommend?
Thanks.

[BWD]

estimated around 200 dollars is that reasonable? also not many people here work with epoxy.

That would be a deal if he actually recreated the structure -right weights of glass over/under the outer foam core, carefully aligned fix, good strong finbox install, coat of paint....
You will spend more than $200 on tools and consumables to do it yourself.
And it is not a beginner project.
To put it in perspective, I have been working with epoxy 7 years as a hobby, repairing and building boards etc, and I have just about the skills to try this repair.
But I don't want to, too hard. More fun to make new boards.

Also consider the fins, if you have the fins to go with it, get it fixed.
If you don't even have the fins, that is another $200-400 expense.
This could be your winter project and come out about the same cost as buying a used non-broken board. Or you could just buy something ride-able and get on the water.

By the way, brand of epoxy is not too important, but the cheaper ones are not always as good.
What's more important is knowing how the epoxy behaves.
This usually comes with practice.
It could be fun, but it's a bigger project than it looks.

[William Munney]

estimated around 200 dollars is that reasonable? also not many people here work with epoxy.

That would be a deal if he actually recreated the structure -right weights of glass over/under the outer foam core, carefully aligned fix, good strong finbox install, coat of paint....
You will spend more than $200 on tools and consumables to do it yourself.
And it is not a beginner project.
To put it in perspective, I have been working with epoxy 7 years as a hobby, repairing and building boards etc, and I have just about the skills to try this repair.
But I don't want to, too hard. More fun to make new boards.

Also consider the fins, if you have the fins to go with it, get it fixed.
If you don't even have the fins, that is another $200-400 expense.
This could be your winter project and come out about the same cost as buying a used non-broken board. Or you could just buy something ride-able and get on the water.

By the way, brand of epoxy is not too important, but the cheaper ones are not always as good.
What's more important is knowing how the epoxy behaves.
This usually comes with practice.
It could be fun, but it's a bigger project than it looks.

Yes, I bought a new 2011 Cabrinha 183 designed by Aguerra for $600 delivered. A 59 cm board, not the latest 69-70 cm but good to get started. Bought it from asphaltkingdom on ebay after seeing it mentioned in a post here.