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RQO
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Postby RQO » Thu Sep 27, 2012 4:34 am
Hi, bought a demo North Whip 2012 and during the first session part of the
traction pad started to come off. Not sure how to repair it. Should I take it
off completely, clean the surface of the board and then use contact cement to
stick it back on? Any tips on how to repair it would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance
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bigwave
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Postby bigwave » Thu Sep 27, 2012 4:56 am
With the pad on,use a pencil and trace the outline of the pad. Then remove the pad. Lightly sand the deck to remove any glue. Clean the pad also. Tape off your outline so you don't get any contact cement on the board. Then, using a good quality Contact Cement, apply on both the deck and pad. Remember, you only get one chance to apply the pad, so get it right! Good luck!
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mdmaui
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Postby mdmaui » Thu Sep 27, 2012 6:31 am
Good reply.
+ use a dull knife to scrape away the old residue, then solvent, then sand. Wait for both deck cc and pad cc to become sticky before squishing:)
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Faber
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Postby Faber » Thu Sep 27, 2012 8:42 am
I also wrap with tape and put some weight over the pad until the glue gets dry.
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Peter_Frank
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Postby Peter_Frank » Thu Sep 27, 2012 9:37 am
Many pads (maybe even "most") will eventually come off at the corners or sides, maybe first after many years, maybe fast sometimes - one never knows...
It will start at the corner(s) of the pad usually.
No need to take the whole pad off, or sand anything - just remove if there is too much glue remains under the "flap".
I just use a good waterproof contact cement, put it on both sides and let it dry 15 minutes while the corner is wide open (use a match to keep it open) - and then it can be closed firmly and you are ready to go "forever" again now.
Works like a charm and doesnt take long...
Even a bit excess glue outside the pad, can just be removed with your fingers, so no biggie.
Peter
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windyway
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Postby windyway » Thu Sep 27, 2012 2:21 pm
You may find yourself gluing the edges again and again if you don't let the glue cure.
Glue your pad at least a day before you put it back in the water. A week would be better.
The contact cement seems to cure for a few days before reaching maximum strength.
Contact cement available to consumers is not the great product it once was.
Seems they have dumbed it down, and it is not as strong.
I've also had success with gorrilla glue on some difficult jobs.
It is very different from traditional glue, so test it first.
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Peter_Frank
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Postby Peter_Frank » Thu Sep 27, 2012 2:30 pm
windyway wrote:You may find yourself gluing the edges again and again if you don't let the glue cure.
Glue your pad at least a day before you put it back in the water. A week would be better.
The contact cement seems to cure for a few days before reaching maximum strength.
Contact cement available to consumers is not the great product it once was.
Seems they have dumbed it down, and it is not as strong.
I've also had success with gorrilla glue on some difficult jobs.
It is very different from traditional glue, so test it first.
True, agree fully
Peter
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Bille
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Postby Bille » Thu Sep 27, 2012 5:25 pm
Faber wrote:I also wrap with tape and put some weight over the pad until the glue gets dry.
Or put some plastic over the freshly glued pad, then dump a bunch of sand on it ; ya get
even distribution of weight that way. I'll do that instead of breaking out the vacuum pump,
on small glass jobs.
Bille
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TommyDuotone
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Postby TommyDuotone » Mon Oct 01, 2012 5:03 am
Don't sand it. No need to. The glue will soften if you use Coleman camp fuel. Since it evaporates quickly,place a rag soaked with it on the area for 10-15 minutes. It will still take some work to get it off, but it will come of once the glue softens with the rag. You can also take the glue off the pad the same way. Use 3m adhesive(90) to reapply it to your board.
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