edt wrote:You could have turned your head to face the wave and not caught it flat but honestly stuff like this happens.
Yeah, but then you can detach your retina. A friend of a friend was surfing, turned back towards the wave, hit the wall of water face first and detached his retina from the pressure on his eye.
I had a similar incident, going too fast towards a wave, but only jammed my knee a bit. Wave was coming, so I picked up speed, blasted over the top, but there was another smaller wave right behind it and had no time to react so came to a complete stop from about 15 knots of board speed.
I guess take it slow when heading out over waves is all you can do. Hope you have a quick recovery!