Here you can exchange your experience and datas about your home build boards
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Larse
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Postby Larse » Thu Jun 13, 2013 12:39 pm
I want to make an adjustable ricker table and need some advice. I'm thinking of just making a frame with 15cm bolts coming straight up from the frame for every 10cm all the way around and then just put pvc (plexi glass) on to that. And then adjust the rocker with some nuts to fix them at a certain hight. Will that work?
Any other ideas?
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joriws
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Postby joriws » Thu Jun 13, 2013 1:18 pm
Here is a picture of rocker table by posted by fellow surfer on FB. He used wood blocks with similar kind of bar & bolt I understood from your setup describtion. I think plexiglass could be too soft/flexible and if it is a big sheet also pull the end of rocker table when tightening on the middle?
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Larse
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Postby Larse » Thu Jun 13, 2013 2:21 pm
Yeah, I also worried about plexi glass being too soft and flexi. Even 5mm is still flexi. Not as much as wood, but still. But combined with those wodden sticks from that pic, I'll be alright
That will work, I'm sure.
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sijandy
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Postby sijandy » Fri Jun 14, 2013 8:55 am
I made mine from 30mm box section steel welded into a 6x2ft frame with a length running centre bar. 10mm threaded bar as bolts from 25cm at the ends running down to 12cm in the centre so -plenty of adjustment. 8mm MDF as the table painted and polished to give shiny surface. Easy and cost under £100, works great.
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sinker
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Postby sinker » Sat Jun 22, 2013 7:05 pm
Larse,
This is what i came up with for an adjustable rocker table. I was tired of creating different blanks, and made this up. Seems to work really well and wasn't too expensive. I used 2x4 1/8" steel for the 3 6' stringers. Then have 1"x1" crossmembers at 32" wide to adjust the rocker. On the 2x4's I welded nuts to adjust the bolt height. Bolts are 1/4" x 4", with the last ones being 6" long to keep a continuous rocker line. Bottom hole in the stringer is 3/8" wide while the top is 11/16" wide to allow the bolt head to pass through to the lower hole. Easily adjusted with a cordless screw driver to turn the nuts. On top of the table I have 3/8" underlayment, then 1/8" plexi. I use 1mm drywall shims to create the concave desired. Once the clamps are on the system seems really tight and solid.
Hope this helps.
Brad
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Larse
- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 482
- Joined: Thu Oct 18, 2007 7:30 pm
- Local Beach: Lynæs , DK
http://www.KiteboardingExercises.com
- Favorite Beaches: Poppelvej, DK
http://www.KiteboardingExercises.com
- Style: Wakestyle/freestyle
- Gear: LF Nirvana, Envy, LF DLX and LF LFX
- Brand Affiliation: Liquid Force and http://www.KiteboardingExercises.com
- Location: Denmark, Frederiksværk
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Postby Larse » Sat Jun 22, 2013 8:20 pm
sinker wrote:Larse,
This is what i came up with for an adjustable rocker table. I was tired of creating different blanks, and made this up. Seems to work really well and wasn't too expensive. I used 2x4 1/8" steel for the 3 6' stringers. Then have 1"x1" crossmembers at 32" wide to adjust the rocker. On the 2x4's I welded nuts to adjust the bolt height. Bolts are 1/4" x 4", with the last ones being 6" long to keep a continuous rocker line. Bottom hole in the stringer is 3/8" wide while the top is 11/16" wide to allow the bolt head to pass through to the lower hole. Easily adjusted with a cordless screw driver to turn the nuts. On top of the table I have 3/8" underlayment, then 1/8" plexi. I use 1mm drywall shims to create the concave desired. Once the clamps are on the system seems really tight and solid.
Hope this helps.
Brad
Very cool
I'll use your setup, but build it in wood. I already have all the materials...
What's that rooe doing on the picture with clambs?
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sinker
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Postby sinker » Sun Jun 23, 2013 6:31 am
The rope is a cheap breather/airway for the vac process. Good luck.
Brad
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