Forum for kitesurfers
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mpleatman
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Postby mpleatman » Tue Jun 25, 2013 10:01 pm
Has anyone tried PVC pipe cement for repairing bladders and valves? The most common recommendation I have seen is for Aquaseal, which is not cheap. The main ingredient is methyl ethyl ketone, also the main ingredient in PVC cement. I tried the PVC cement on a piece of bladder material, and it seems to bond well. Since this stuff is cheap and available at every hardware store, is there some reason why people don't use it?
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edt
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Postby edt » Tue Jun 25, 2013 10:10 pm
3m 5200 fast cure $15 for a giant 10 oz calking cartridge, I usually buy the 3 ounce bottle for $12 usually goes hard before I use the whole tube. I dont think pipe cement is flexible and might melt the bladder, which creates wrinkles.
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sijandy
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Postby sijandy » Wed Jun 26, 2013 7:55 am
it works really well for valve repairs but you're right it does deform the bladder material a bit.
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Starsky
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Postby Starsky » Wed Jun 26, 2013 4:20 pm
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edt
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Postby edt » Wed Jun 26, 2013 4:53 pm
they unfortunately didnt test the two best glues, aquaseal & 3m5200
when a glue melts the bladder wrinkles form, then air will escape out the wrinkles it might not happen right away you cant use any glue that noticeably deforms the bladder material
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Saami
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Postby Saami » Wed Jun 26, 2013 9:48 pm
edt wrote:
they unfortunately didnt test the two best glues, aquaseal & 3m5200
Aquaseal and 3M 5200 are indeed great for gluing bladders and valves; but the problem with both is that once you've opened the tube, what is left goes hard within a couple of weeks. I end up having to use a brand new tube for every repair job.
How about the Vynabond that was recommended in that test - does what's left in the tube stay soft and usable for a long time? Does anyone know?
Another glue that is pretty good is Pattex Clear. It doesn't bond quite as reliably as Aquaseal and 3M 5200 - but you can use the same bottle for years.
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edt
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Postby edt » Wed Jun 26, 2013 9:58 pm
I know what you mean! Before you close the tube grease the threads and cap it. I have a 6 month old tube I've used for a dozen repairs still good. Before I started greasing the threads the tube would harden up in two weeks. Oh and remember to get all the old grease off the tube tip before you use it again. Dont take much water vapor to cure 3m5200
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jats2k9
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Postby jats2k9 » Thu Jun 27, 2013 12:12 am
I'm a real fan of the 3m5200, but the last time that I used it, one of the valves came off as it wasn't even pasted at all. Does anybody have any idea why this could have happened?
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SalmonSlayer
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Postby SalmonSlayer » Thu Jun 27, 2013 12:33 am
jats2k9 wrote:I'm a real fan of the 3m5200, but the last time that I used it, one of the valves came off as it wasn't even pasted at all. Does anybody have any idea why this could have happened?
is it possible you forgot to clean the bladder and the powder did not allow adhesion.
I keep my Aquaseal in the freezer for longer shelf life.
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Saami
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Postby Saami » Thu Jun 27, 2013 7:11 am
edt wrote:I know what you mean! Before you close the tube grease the threads and cap it. I have a 6 month old tube I've used for a dozen repairs still good. Before I started greasing the threads the tube would harden up in two weeks. Oh and remember to get all the old grease off the tube tip before you use it again. Dont take much water vapor to cure 3m5200
Thanks, that's a good idea! I just checked the cap of the 3M tube and I realize that it's indeed quite loose (a lot of play between the threads of the cap and the threads of the tube). I can see how greasing the threads will slow down the entry of oxygen and water vapor into the opened tube.
I'll try it on my next tube of Aquaseal as well.
SalmonSlayer wrote:I keep my Aquaseal in the freezer for longer shelf life.
Thanks! I'll try that, too.
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