Just to clarify, Ruben's personal bar for the Extract kite doesn't have a safety, he prefers just to use a suicide leash. The production version of the bar uses the same single front line safety as the RP-Bar and the same 8mm depower line as the GP-Bar.
It should work fine. I'll post it when it's finished. Still waiting on the lines to arrive.
Well if it does catch you can always grab 10 meter of 12 strand dyneema, splice it and that that one line will have 10 meters of regular kite line on it <--- this is how I would do it if I had a mess of q-powerline. You need to learn how to splice anyway if you are making your own bars, because you can splice your own leaders, bridle replacements, chicken lines etc. I really hate any kind of knots passing through the bar hole, so when I make a splice for my elastic flag out section I don't even use a zacher knot, I do a simple splice and sew it to lock it.
When I throw my QR I don't want it to work 95 times out of 100 I want it to work 100 out of 100. Saves a lot of grief because you don't have to sew back up a wrecked kite because you had to release it when the QR failed that one time. If there is a knot and it passes thru the bar hole, if you throw the QR a ton like I do, it will eventually catch on the bar might not be a high percentage but I had to learn this the hard way.
You never use your quick release. So your quick release only needs to work 2 times out of 3. I use mine at least once a year, so I want mine to work 999 times out of 1,000. It's just the percentages, I don't really throw it 1,000 times a year.
I test mine regularly, but have had to use it properly about once a year in a situation, I thought from your post that you regularly QRed during kiting.
Since most kites depower enough when you drop the bar the only time you would need to QR is in a dangerous situation, and when this happens I expect my kite to be fully disabled not merely in a depowered setting and don't mind the fact that it is then unable to relaunch, as more than likely a pack down would be the best option anyway.
fdvj wrote:I test mine regularly, but have had to use it properly about once a year in a situation, I thought from your post that you regularly QRed during kiting. Since most kites depower enough when you drop the bar the only time you would need to QR is in a dangerous situation, and when this happens I expect my kite to be fully disabled not merely in a depowered setting and don't mind the fact that it is then unable to relaunch, as more than likely a pack down would be the best option anyway.
I think this is a dangerous preconception. Sounds like you're on the ball, but I see a lot of people just drop the bar and think they'll be ok - even when it's diving through the powerzone and they're being dragged over the crap-strewn beach IMO if you're not in control of the kite, you should be hovering over the QR.
I check my QR is free of sand and operates properly (release and reset) just before I hook in to launch.
So flybykite, why don't you just use a piece for kite line with a loop at the swivel end, for your safety line ? I know you'll lose the bungie aspect, but then the connected loops will slide through the North Iron heart and you'll have the benefit of the Iron Heart swivel...........
fdvj wrote:I IMO if you're not in control of the kite, you should be hovering over the QR.
this is a solid statement. kite falling badly from a high point, a kite relaunching itself because of a line tangle that happened during a kite crash. those are the 2 most common reasons for possibly having to use a QR.
this thread however was not about using a quick release. it was about how effectively a leash system disables a kite.
people ask about why QR so often?? its not necessarily a quick release situation when you have or need your kite to disable onto the leash. it is in self landings, and it is when you let go of the bar screwing up unhooked (unless your leashed depower aka suicide style and arent using the leash to disable the kite.)
disabling and resetting a kite is not hard, it is something everyone should be not only familiar with, but good at. it doesnt take much practice.
Jinx wrote:i dont see the re ride being sacrificed on a front line flag, i teach on the LF envy and we are always releasing as part of the class and having students fix them selves up with little trouble
like most days, we also disabled kites repeatedly onto single front line leash systems during lessons. the bar rarely travels further than necessary (10-15feet) on a 12m, less on a smaller kite. reseting and re-riding is not hard. it happens all the time.
i always ride freestyle leashed to a single front line. leashing suicide beats the shit out of my kites. i bail unhooked a lot. usually 10-30 times a session at least. that is how many times, every time i ride, that my kite disables onto a centerline and is reset and re-flown.
and the same goes for a lot of the guys i ride with.
So I'm confused,
I'm building a bar. I don't have a bungee. In using one length of q line as the flag line. the stopper ball I'll make from nylon will be at the bottom of the swivel. A knot on the bar side will power the ball into the swivel, the rest of the line will feed through a ring on the side of the QR and have another ring attached to clip into. I'm unable to post my diagram again from page 1 from my phone. Please have a look at it and let me know if you see a design flaw.
I'm off to the kite spot now and no reception so it might be awhile before I reply.
you dont need a bungee. that is just to try and keep things neat, but it is unnecessary.
a stopper ball internally mounted in the swivel? is that what your saying? is that going to interfere with sheeting line? also, whats going to keep it in there? what happened to just relying on a knot or joint the centerline and leash line attachement point to act as the stopper in the swivel wall or end.?
the outside the loop mount at the leash attachment point allows for a smooth passage of the leash line, you can use a stopper ball there (below the loop) followed by a steel ring for the leash to clip to.